Jump to content
SAU Community

Where Can I Get Thermal Paste?

S4LVA

By S4LVA,
in PC & Games Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

S4LVA Collaborator

S4LVA

Posted
Posted

After changing my cpu the old paste has become a bit worn out (only half the cpu is covered in a thin layer now) idle temp is around 40 degrees where it should be 25-30.

Ive checked MSY which has lots listed on the website but they never have the paste in stock, also checked on centrecom,scorpion,pcws websites and none of them have thermal paste listed.

All ive found is this. http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?I...mp;form=KEYWORD

I know its only $7 but still i want something good on my cpu, dont wanna have to clean it off to replace it and reseat the cooler because it may be crap. Anyone used this or know where I can find some good paste?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/341703-where-can-i-get-thermal-paste/
Share on other sites
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Just go to PC Case Gear

www.pccasegear.com

You can order online and then go pickup, or just have it delivered.

This is the best on the market at present far as i know:

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_p...oducts_id=12710

bozodos Grand Master

bozodos

Posted
Posted

pc case gear FTW

I usually use Arctic Silver cause we have a whole bunch of it here at work.

TBH though it's more about how you apply the paste (spread a thin layer evenly on the cpu rather than making blobs) than the actual content of the paste itself.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
Thanks, Would rather an easy pick up without having to order, Did you know anywhere else with it available instantly? but those temp results look pretty good. Have you tried it yourself?

I use that Termal paste myself on all the builds i do for people, my own E8400 runs 4.3ghz day in/day out and i think idles around 35 degrees with a reasonable voltage behind it :P

Go down to Scorp Tech or something (just google, plenty of PC places in Melb), but you'll usually pay a bit more again, and they tend not to have the diversity.

For PCCG, you order online and its generally ready within a couple hours anyway mate. So order, go get some lunch and by the time your done it'll be ready to collect :D

S4LVA Collaborator

S4LVA

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I got impatient and went to centrecom and got some Deepcool z5, Couldnt find any reviews for it and dont know why i bought it, but it works good :P I thought if i ordered it I would be waiting for around a week. Oh well still happy with this stuff for $12 3g tube. Was hard to squirt the blob in the middle, little stringy bits stretched as i took the syringe away. So i ended up doing the spread technique over the blob.

Cpu is overclocked to 3.8ghz now and running at pretty much the same temps with a slight bump from 1.34v to 1.38v 30 degree idle then upto 42 while playing starcraft 2 4v4 lol. Havnt given it a propper prime test yet though.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

I ain't CPU limited on any game... so struggling for a reason to upgrade at the moment given i need cash for other endeavours :D

Hottest I get to in 4v4 is around 50c :P

I suspect though my cooler might not be mounted all that good since my last dust cleanout

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
ahh you're not playing the right games then mang! 4 cores FTW

should get into overclocking mine, but now I'm lazy and CBF lugging it to work again to start pulling apart n replacing stuff in

lol... SC2 doesnt use a lot of CPU overall, only during load.

Its more ram intensive.

Plus most other games i play seem fine, hardly ANY games are multi core

I think my cpu AM3 965 tops out around the 4.0-4.1 mark. Most people on the overclockers forum stopped at 4.0ghz. Is yours water cooled? 4.3ghz is massive for the 8400 lol.

Just on air :)

lapped the CPU as well though, that saw a 8 degree drop under load which was awesome.

S4LVA Collaborator

S4LVA

Posted
  • Author
Posted

4ghz stable :P 55max during prime. cheapo coolermaster 212+ and my crappy Deepcool z5 paste was good enough :laugh: Wonder why lots of people are struggling to get 4ghz with there $120 heatsinks and perfectly applied thermal paste. I just put in 20x200 and 1.45v and I'ts happy lol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • CRSKmD
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By CRSKmD · Posted

      yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
    • MBS206
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By MBS206 · Posted

      That's some really horrible design with the way it's cut/shaped! Is there much damage to the box that failed in? IE, new fork and you can go again, or is it a total rebuild again? Id be trying to build that piece from scratch, and getting some reliefs added in the corner to hopefully stop breakage, and then swapping boxes ASAP, and then doing the same to the currently good working box. I'm assuming hard shifts have not been friendly to it!
×
×
  • Create New...