Jump to content
SAU Community

Hicas - Im Very New To This Car And Would Love Some Input


Recommended Posts

Hi again, i know this topic has been covered abit in the past and ive been doing my best reading through old posts hoping to find my answer but had know luck yet so i figured i might aswell just straight out ask, i bought my R34 gtt about 2 months ago, when i was testdriving it i even asked the salesman why the HICAS light on the dash was lit up and what it was for, and he just said its to tell you its working properly and then changed the subject, now all my life ive wanted a nice skyline but that doesnt mean i know a thing about them, i know this is gana sound silly but yeah i dont really even know what the HICAS does properly. I soon figured the light must be on for a reason other then what the lier salesman said but there doesnt seem to be anything wrong with the car, i dont know what i should be thinking may be wrong either, could i be causing my car damage driving it with this light on ?? I would love all the help and ideas i could possibly get on this topic, it would be greatly appreciated... Thankyou so much for taking the time to read this...... Cheers

Elle.. :-)

i assume you know hicas is the 4wheels steering in skylines. if the light is on, the car may have had hicas removed or the hicas may have a fault. post a pic of the underside of your car looking at the diff from the rear. that will show if your car has had hicas removed

most people remove the hicas because it has a mind of its own and sometimes tries to do things you aren't expecting. makes driving your car hard a little dicey when you are having to correct for what the computer is doing and it tries to correct for what you are doing at the same time. removing it also saves a bit a of weight.

unless you go with a tomei hicas removal kit or similar, which fool the hicas ecu, you'll have the light pop up. these kits are exxy though and people generally just remove the bulb from the dash. free and easy.

however, do get it checked because the light may also come on for a fault with the system or orther related stuff. i have no knowledge of this aspect so better wait for other replies here or take it to a mechanic to get it checked out.

meantime, look through these two threads. the info you need is likely to be in there. btw, i got these two simply by searching. try that next time. might save you a bit of time:

Hicas removal on a r33

Hicas diagnostic

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...