Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys im putting up my r34 n1 rb26 long motor 4 sale, my mate got this from powerplay last year, they got it brand new 4 there targa tasmania car as a spare motor but never used it, my mate put it in his car and the same day he got it tuned he crashed the car so he only done 100ks if that then i bought the whole set up my self and was going to use it 4 my 180sx but now i want to build a rb26 its a waste to strip this new engine down so thats why im selling and starting with a new n1 block, the motor is sitting on a engine stand at MRC DYNO SERVICES at the moment. the engine was running fine before we pulled it out.

brand new rb26 long motor un opened

sump has been modified to suit rear wheel drive with tomei baffels

ross harmonic balancer (the front of the pully has a few light skuff marks from the accedent the radiator was just tuching it) also timing cover has slight scratch on the gold

r34 cam angle sensor

nissan have stopped making these engines, im askin 12500 ono

contact pete 0407008651

post-16021-1288075351_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/341935-nur-r34-n1-rb26/
Share on other sites

man if i had 12k id buy this for my 180 lol that would just top my car off lol love these motors seen good power and reliable (spelling lol) gl with sale.... wish i had the money

if only :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/341935-nur-r34-n1-rb26/#findComment-5519161
Share on other sites

i bought the whole set up my self and was going to use it 4 my 180sx but now i want to build a rb26 its a waste to strip this new engine down so thats why im selling and starting with a new n1 block,

I don't understand, you are selling an n1 rb26 block to start on another n1 rb26 block?

brand new rb26 long motor un opened

Well not really brand new now is it?

ross harmonic balancer (the front of the pully has a few light skuff marks from the accedent the radiator was just tuching it) also timing cover has slight scratch on the gold

r34 cam angle sensor

Pics of damage? Is the scratch on the timing cover due to the accident as well?

You show 1 picture of a complete motor and say you are selling a long motor, well what is and isn't included in your long motor?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/341935-nur-r34-n1-rb26/#findComment-5524310
Share on other sites

i bought the whole set up my self and was going to use it 4 my 180sx but now i want to build a rb26 its a waste to strip this new engine down so thats why im selling and starting with a new n1 block,

I don't understand, you are selling an n1 rb26 block to start on another n1 rb26 block?

brand new rb26 long motor un opened

Well not really brand new now is it?

ross harmonic balancer (the front of the pully has a few light skuff marks from the accedent the radiator was just tuching it) also timing cover has slight scratch on the gold

r34 cam angle sensor

Pics of damage? Is the scratch on the timing cover due to the accident as well?

You show 1 picture of a complete motor and say you are selling a long motor, well what is and isn't included in your long motor?

im only selling 1 item a complete engine, n1 rb26 r34 only has done 1200k`s from factory, comes with ross metal jacket balancer, rear wheel drive sump with tomei baffels and brand new cas THATS IT, no turbos no manifolds, no flywheel etc

the reason im selling the engine cause i changed plans and building another rb26 starting with new n1 block.

yes the scratch is due to the accident, the bonnet just nicked the corner and the radiator was resting on harmonic balancer on the power steering belt section of harmonic balancer, ill get pics next week.

i can do a better price without balancer, sump or cas.

hope this clears everything up any questions feel free to ring 0407008651.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/341935-nur-r34-n1-rb26/#findComment-5524882
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...