Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am looking to upgrade my turbos as i believe that they are standard, i want to use the car for circut racing. Can anyone recommend any turbos that will fit up to my standard exhaust as i have an Apexi computer looking to get 350 kw. What cc injectors will i need? Does the standard bottom end handle this power?

Cheers

Sean

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342111-r32-gtr-89-model/
Share on other sites

If you can find a set of R34 GTR N1 turbos, max output should be able to support 500 PS (367 kWs).

Garrett -7's will push the same max output.

N1 turbos should be a straight bolt on if not, get the R34 GTR N1 exhaust mainfold as well and bolt that to your block.

Not too sure about injectors... I drove a R34 GTR V-Spec II Nur with stock injectors with 306 kWs at the rear wheels and it holds up fine.

Supposedly the oil pump drive collar in the older R32's tended to fail, if heavily modified, but was later improved in the later models... So best if you looked into that once you modify.

Stock bottom end should be fine as the RB26's are very strong.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...