Jump to content
SAU Community

Re-shelling My R33 Into What? R33? Stagea?

mxdori

By mxdori,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

mxdori Apprentice

mxdori

Posted
Posted

Ok long story short, I have a damaged 97model R33 on the left rear quarter, and the boot doesnt quite shut aswell as it did anymore. So I dont think its repairable? or worth repairing?

The car has alot of goodies on it... Tein Super Drift Coilovers around 3yrs old, 2way diff, adj suspension arms, power fc, injectors, hks 2535 turbo, spitfire coil packs, z32afm, hks fmic, yoshio factory radiator, hks oil cooler kit, dump and front pipe, engine and gearbox working well, doesnt blow smoke, greddy ebc, has carbon fiber boot that is east bear brand and is level with the rear guard line (read not sunken down like factory boot) and bonnet is carbon fiber, but the clear coat is bit average. I have been drifting it at Ebisu Circuit in Japan, and its been really good to drive... but had a minor off on the touge course into a dirt embankment.

So I was looking at Re-shelling the car into a stock r33 body, but was interested to know if there is anouther model like Stagea? That I could drop the running gear in and the suspension components into.

Or even if there is a cheap R33 GTR Shell? Put front and rear subframes into, wiring etc... ?

I would just put over fenders on it, but havent found any that are simlar to 180sx or silvia style that cover the whole quarter panel. The ones i have seen only go half way up the quarter panel.

It looks like its going to cost me to get the car to Australia 8-9grand including the purchase price of the car.

So trying to weigh up my options...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • joshuaho96
      Cas issue

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • joshuaho96
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...