Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys purchased a great 93 R33 gts-t yesterday, it has a fair few cosmetic mods(mostly veilside hence the name) but the mechanical ones are as follows.......

apexi air filter(no cold air intake which i will do soon)

3" exhaust(cat back i think) 5" tip

hks ssq BOV(earlier model)

lowered

had intercooler but was removed.

boost gauge.

i know nissan turbo's pretty well, but im unfamiliar with the rb25's, also skylines may perform better when modified differently to say a 180sx, so my question is what would you recomend as my next mods?

basically i was going to go with a big frontmount(probably hybrid) then up the boost to say 11psi via an apexi ebc or other ebc, i'll have to get a turbo timer pretty soon, prob g'reddy or apexi, maybe bleed valve(prob turbosmart).

i think that sounds ok but im sure as most of you would have a far better knowledge than i of skylines id really appreciate your help, the brands i have mentioned are pretty good but as i said skylines may respond better to a different brand of intercooler or ebc etc....

any advice you can give me would be great

thanks, Andrew.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34232-early-stage-mods/
Share on other sites

do yr exhaust first, do you have a EFC? well after market one i mean? if not throw on one of them too. Leave yr FMIC until u get a bigger turbo or really crank up the boost and fit them at the same time.

Handling would also be a good start, you said it was lowered, question is how, with new suspension or just modded the old stuff.

Hope this gives you a few ideas.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34232-early-stage-mods/#findComment-686139
Share on other sites

ehaust is done, and its actually really good, EFC, my bad ive forgotten wgat they r, but i doubt it has an aftermarket one, its been lowered and the suspension has been done and its handles really well,

basically i just want a pretty damn fast daily driver capeable of comfortably beating clubsports and rexs, currently i would say it would beat both of them in stock cond, easily.

also if its possible and anyone knows can they give rough prices if the mods suggested

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34232-early-stage-mods/#findComment-686144
Share on other sites

I think Messiah meant the other 1/2 of your zorzt ie Turbo back w/ High flow cat

I would'nt bother with turbo timer..

Do you have a plan as to what the end GOAL for your car is, If you do what is it,

If you dont then you should think about what you want from the car and what you want to do with it. ( It will save you alot of money )

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34232-early-stage-mods/#findComment-686158
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...