Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

up for sale is my pride and joy, this is sort of a EOI as i'm in no rush to sell it.

this has had ALOT of cash spent on it.

Colour: White

KM’S: 75k

DRIVE: Manual

i have included a few pics.. note: car has work xt7's and also the last dyno sheet, made 310rwkw @18psi but with wheel spin... (from running semi slicks and negative camber on the rear.)

number plates that come with the car are RUF - 034

located south australia, interstate buyers welcome... no test pilots!

list of mods are as follows:

ENGINE

Fully rebuilt engine, forged internals.

Plazmaman polished plenum

Plazmaman polished billet throttle body

Plazmaman pro series intercooler

Garret gt3076 (still under warranty)

Hard intake pipe to pod filter

HKS ‘snail’ dump pipe, trust exhaust.

Z32 AFM

Nistune ECU

Profec BII boost controller

Splitfire coilpacks

Walbro fuel pump

Fuel pressure regulator

Sard 510cc injectors

Full RB26 cam cover conversion

RB26 MINES tripple flow baffle kit

Custom made Catch can

Greddy oil filter relocator, oil cooler

Fidenza exhaust cam gear

GATES timing belt

50mm polished radiator.

Battery relocated to boot (fresh battery)

HANDLING

Tein HR coilovers

Front and rear adjustable camber arms

R34 GTR brembo’s (freshly rebuilt)

Braided brake lines

QFM A1RM brake pads

Pirelli semi slicks

DRIVELINE

NISMO 2-way diff, fully rebuilt with new bearing and seal kit

Extreme single plate organic kit

INTERIOR

GTR front seats

Trust gear knob

Jvc dvd player

Pivot tripple gauge cluster.

RIMS

Car comes with advan double 5spoke rims.

But can supply WORK XT7’s.

I may have also forgotten some stuff

matt: 0405326532

price 28k

post-67715-1288395410_thumb.jpg

post-67715-1288395484_thumb.jpg

post-67715-1288395649_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342388-for-sale-built-310rwkw-r34/
Share on other sites

who built engine?

how many km's on engine?

receipts?

size of xt7?

gt3076 internal or external gate?

specs on engine build?

cheers

lewis engines at mount barker S.A

20,000km on engine 55,000km on car 75,000km total

yes have reciepts for close to $20k worth of gear

18x9.5 +12 all round mat titanium finish.

gt3076 is internal gated "rb" machined

motor built for 350-400rwkw SAFELY

rebuilt forged botom end, chemically cleaned, crack tested etc..

H beam rods

grubbed screwed crank

ACL bearings

forged pistons and ring set

oil restrictors

recon head

ARP studs

if you want further info just pm me mate, and anyone else.

just added up the receipts i have doesnt included everything i have as some things paid cash here and there etc.. but come to to 35K

34's still fetch 21-23k spend a extra 5k and get your self a car with probl 40k worth of mods!

any offers?

fantastic price for those modifications. some real quality stuff too - for $28k you're getting a helluva lot

i take it it's a 1998?

good luck, seems like a fantastic package.

What did you weld onto the RB26 front timing cover to make it clear the VCT? Looks very neat!

I'm still running the RB25 timing cover on mine until I decide what I do to make the RB26 one fit, but I love the look of yours :P

i cant remember what exactly it was but basically it was this like metal cap that was like press moulded into that shap and i just chose the right size then got this dude to weld it up, then got the spray painter to smooth over the weld with this stuff to make it look smooth then two-pack it with some pearls

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...