Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, was wondering if anyone on here has had experience with nistune and the tuning software? i have it installed in my car and it works well but the guys i got to tune my car didn't do any of the fine tuning and if runs a little average til it hits boost. I was wondering if anyiny can give some advice?

Hi everyone,

I'm hoping that someone can help me with a flat spot that occurs whilst my car is cold (It's also a little harder to start in the mornings).

The Car:

R33 GTS-T, T04 turbo, Z32 MAF, Bosch Fuel pump, manual boost controller (bleeder), Splitfires, Nistune on a R32 ECU (s/w emulated idle switch for TPS)

In order to save some money I basically installed the ECU and MAF myself tweaked the K constant and drove to Turbo Tune (Melrose Park, South Australia)

The result:

dyno-tt.gif

Now I don't really have a clue when it comes to "tuning" cars, but from what I can tell the timing isn't advancing on low revs/temp.

Log file: Cold run CSV

ECU settings: BIN

I've basically put up with it since April, so if anyone can help I'd greatly appreciate it.

Cheers.

Thanks!

Edited by DJ-Static
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342613-tuning-issues-e85-ideas/
Share on other sites

is there any more data in the logs? other sensors etc? like datalogit logs, heaps easier to read and more useful

i can see where it runs fine then all the timing drops to the floor, which i suspect is what you call running it like crap when cold

only thing i can think of is its running on an area on the map thats poorly tuned or has tons of correction

does nsitune let you do a map tracer like in the powerfc? try that and see what cells is referencing from?

Oh yeah, i am intending to switch to E85 permanently as it is now available consistently and affordably from caltex, i will be wiring in a AFR meter as soon as i fix my cars midspeed,low throttle response issues.

Thanks for the reply Paulr33, i do have the ability to trace a run and play it back, the nistune software allows everything a vipec/motec does except for the use of a MAP sensor instead of a MAF. the csv file plays back on any computer with the nistune software, so i was hoping someone else running nistune in a similarly configured vehicle would be able to do a comparison to their cars tune.

I guess if there is a tuning for dummies thread i should probably look it up, are you aware of any such thread?

I'd just take it to a good tuner and tell them your problem and ask if they could spend a little more time tuning the other areas of the map.

I've only used turbo tune once years ago and I never went back after that. Wasn't happy with the tune, so I went elsewhere.

I go to Boostworx, I trust Shaun's tuning and havent had a problem to date with their work.

But maybe the only way to get this sorted is to pay a litle extra for some fine tuning rather than just getting a power tune done when they only adjust the cells referenced at WOT.

Thanks Brezza, i went to turbo tune because simon from Morpowa was on holiday and a mate suggested turbo tune because he used to get stuff done at bill keen/ATS. I wanted a complete tune but i think the turbo tune guys thought i had no idea and thought a great powertune would keep me quiet. they have since closed down from what i have heard.

Out of interest what does boostworx generally charge, i am aware the particulars of the vehicle and the work required dictate the cost but i was wondering what the ball park is?

Simon @ morpowa, PETE from Nistune are the only guys i reccomend in SA for nistune (person experience), there are other great tuners but these guys know nistune in and out.

Jeff @ speed lab and brenton from 4's & more are also good ive heard.

Jeffs retired now and 4's and More have been telling the people i have spoken too that Nistune equiped ECU's will blow up their motor and that they should go for a full aftermarket ECU lol.

ah, least you can always go with the best... pete or morpowa.

I had a look at your csv and BIN file.

So your saying it's running badly on pre boost? I noticed you didn't rev it past 4000 rpm on the whole run but the timing and fuel mostly look good.

there was a couple of strange parts in it where the load (TP) would rise and fall quickly in succession. were you doing this with your right foot?

Could it just be that your using a 32 ECU which has no VCT causing the flat spot?

dudescsv.jpg

Is this the "Poor Running" you're talking about? ^

Other than that it looks like quite a safe tune, with a few degrees less than mine at low loads/cruise

Just noticed another thing that should have been addressed. Have a look here.

dudestiming.jpg

This is First gear, at 4000rpm. You're already over half way accross the map (left to right). TP(load) of 55 where your max TP(load) is only 115.

This tells me that if you put your foot down for a WOT run your max TP will go much higher than 115.

Basically it doesn't look like the timing map is (and fuel map is the same) are scaled correctly. As in at WOT the trace will slam hard into the far right colomn and be far from optimum.

So in all take it back to a tuner. Especially if you run e85. I put caltex's E-Flex (e70) into mine and after getting the fuel right my max TP(load) increased by 50.

I was making the tp go up and down to demonstrate that no advance changes occurred while tp position changed.

The reason i did not take it over 4g is because when boost comes on car is great, i believe i have ruled out VCT issues because when the car is warm the flatspot gets better almost completely disappearing. If it was VCT related wouldn't i have the flatspot all the time?

Thnaks random i am you are a champ! i plan on taking it to boostworx and showing them your astute advice and getting this rectified by a professional. Thanks for all your input guys, skylines australia is a hell of a forum

OOOOooooooo. Not good.

I see where your talking about now.

dudesfault.jpg

Here the actual timing doesn't match the timing map.

There are a whole bunch of "timing tables" (I've only worked on my R34 GTT which does'nt have so many of these, and they're different). My bet is one of these tables is overiding the timing map untill the car is warm.

My advice would be to try get as much info from NIStune as possable about what each timing table does and work from there.

Cheers

it looks like an auto tune and the auto logic is trying to predict gear changes on the auto box

ie cut timing and dump it on the floor during gear

are you sure its a manual ECU that you have ?

not sure, i assume it is manual ecu as that is what it was advertised as on the forum here. it was listed as a non-turbo rb20 ecu. I don't think temperature would effect the condition then if it was an auto?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks! Supercheap has a sale on this weekend so might be a good opportunity to get a new one. I do have a decent multimeter so I'll give it a try either way.   Hah, you got me! I do not. All I know is that the battery holds charge and sits at an okay level before I start the car. Doing the full charge and rejuvenation cycle on a trickle-charger seems to not really make a difference to the cold start behaviour. I'll try and measure it during cranking and see what it does. It's likely terrible; it certainly feels terrible.  I'll be happy if it is really just the battery and I don't have to dick around with the alternator or starter motor.
    • how do you know voltage is fine?  quick easy test is connect DMM up and put it on max/min mode, remove fuel pump fuse, crank car for 3-5s, go check min voltage You'd be surprised how many "healthy" batteries are showing under 10v during this test in cold weather. 
    • Not properly. You need to be able to dissipate 100 amps or so to doing it meaningfully. You can do it indirectly by watching to see how far the voltage falls during cranking. Unplug the coils or something else to prevent it from starting so you can get a good couple or three chugs. It also helps if you have the multimeter set up reading before you start, and that it has max/min functions. So you can catch the real minimum without having to watch the screen, which often doesn't update fast enough to show the real max/min in dynamic situations. Or use a digital oscilloscope, which can be obtained for <<$100 from Aliexpress (although I'd argue for paying up to ~$200 for a nicer one). A >4 yr old battery will very likely be well down the path to the knackery. Many only last 5-6 years these days. The cold weather lately will definitely make it worse.
    • Hmmm, what do you mean by getting weaker? And where did you get that test done? I've been wondering about my battery because the cold starts crank super slowly. The voltage is fine. Not sure if cranking amps can be checked at home. Battery is 4+ years old.
    • No. The simplest wastegate hookup, with no solenoid or other form of "boost control" (ie, control over your boost control, if you know what I mean) is a single hose, direct from the turbo outlet/hot pipe, straight and only to the wastegate actuator. It is that pressure signal that drives the wastegate to open, providing the boost control (and by "boost control" here, I mean, limiting how high it can go, which is essentially the spring pressure of the actuator). You only end up with tee pieces and alternate flow paths once you start adding things to the boost control system to allow you to determine how much of that boost signal makes it to the actuator. There are so many ways to do that that there is no single way to run the hoses and tees and the like. If you have a stock boost solenoid, then all it does is either allow all the boost signal to go to the actuator, or open up to allow some of it to bleed off. There needs to be a restriction in that bleeder to allow only a small amount to bleed off. And in a stock system, that would then be plumbed back to the turbo inlet (for "emissions control" reasons). That is actually what that nipple on your BOV return pipe could/would be for. If you have an aftermarket boost controller and solenoid, then the above is mostly true, but there is no need for a restrictor in the bleed, because the solenoid is pulse width modulated to create a variable bleed off. The air that escapes from the bleed can either be vented, or also returned to the turbo inlet. For emissions reasons it should be returned to inlet, but the amount of air being vented is so small that it really doesn't matter (either from an emissions perspective, or from an air-fuel ratio affecting perspective).
×
×
  • Create New...