Jump to content
SAU Community

Skylne Rb20de N/a

Yoshi_SkyDrifter
 Share

Recommended Posts

Yoshi_SkyDrifter Newbie

Yoshi_SkyDrifter

Posted
Posted

So i need help. I wanna put a turbo on my RB20DE N/A. Can i just put a turbo on it as is, or do i have to upgrade any thing? Or is the N/A RB20 engine exactly the same as the Turbo RB20DET? besides the turbo obviously.. Internals Ect... ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/342970-skylne-rb20de-na/
Share on other sites
mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

internals are slightly different. for starters the engine has higher compression that the turbo version, so this limits the boost you can run safely before you start having issues. on the upside it means that you will make more power for the same amount of boost than a stock turbo one (but they can run higher boost and then even it out).

pretty sure fuel injectors are bigger on the turbo engine.

it isn't as simple as just bolting a turbo on and away you go. other than needing to change the exhaust (manifold and actual exhaust system), you also need to run water and oil lines for the turbo lubrication and cooling. then there's all the intake piping. after that you have the fuel system to worry about. if the injectors are different like i think they are then you need to upgrade them and then upgrade the ECU as well. generally even for people doing all the work themselves it still costs a few thousand dollars to do.

all up you are actually better off selling your car and buying a factory turbo model. non turbo skylines sell for pretty much the same as turbo ones these days thanks to the P-plate restrictions in a lot of states, so you will come out a few thousand dollars better off this way, and you will get the added bonus of bigger brakes and a stronger gearbox (not sure if this is the case on the r32, but it is for the r33).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok guys thank you very much. GCG highflow it is then 🙂 
    • JC71
      98 R34GTT 4k engine stumble

      By JC71 · Posted

      forgot to mention that when it does this it does not kill the engine, but I have not kept the pedal down long enough to let it, as I see no reason to beat up on it as its got to be something simple, small and dumb causing this.  And as soon as I let off pedal, the engine returns to its normal super smooth operation and rpms re-stabilize quickly, once below 4k. 
    • JC71
      98 R34GTT 4k engine stumble

      By JC71 · Posted

      neither stumble or cut really seem to be an appropriate term....hard to explain its like a rev limiter but at 4k, but it violently shakes engine and entire vehicle as the rpms will not rise over 4k, even with slow acceleration. as soon as it hits 4k, it sounds like entire spark is lost entirely. plugs were 1.1 which I used as such, but later put in new plugs gapped down to .8 changed back after issue arose when I replaced the coils, still does it with either plug gap...damn and it was all running so good.
    • TurboTapin
      Why am I hitting a power wall with my stroked RB25?

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Oh how times have changed! I actually lean it out relative to my water/methanol injector duty cycle. The methanol adds a lot of fueling and you can then lean it out even more due to reduced knock. 
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Why am I hitting a power wall with my stroked RB25?

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Yeah my thoughts are the same, a well thought out WMI setup, would be slightly ahead of just straight E85 and you're also chemically intercooling the charged air, dropping it even further. This is why you need to add so much more fuel as soon as you spray. I remember someone taking me through their set up before (Dennis, has a R33, lives around Cabramatta - no idea if he's still around on this forum). He would target AFR 10:1 on 98, then as WMI ramped on, AFR would lean back up to 11:1. Amazingly, he did this all through his PowerFC, a relay to cut power to his EBC solenoid if there was not enough line pressure on his WMI kit. And of course, if there wasn't any boost made above gate pressure, you wouldn't be accessing the load cells with heaps of timing for WMI. One downside to that rudimentary setup, once the WMI came on, the EBC would unleash the dragon, and of course all the timing. Tyres would fry lol.
×
×
  • Create New...