Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

As per the title, I'm looking for opinions on the GReddy Type S BOV as I'm looking to upgrade from the std R32 BOV to an adjustable recirculating BOV that fits the stock location and I can set to open fully at higher boost (I run 12 & 16psi) as I suspect the std one is leaking. Basically I get an annoying leaking 'whoooshing' sound through my pod filter when I'm accelerating or even just using light throttle to maintain 100ks cruise...I've attempted blocking the small hole next to the piston in the std BOV (as per the associated thread on SAU) but this only helped marginally. Anyone had similar experiences with the std BOV?

Also, I noticed the GReddy Type S BOV has two fittings for vacuum source, as per my attached pic.....I read that the bottom one is only used in some installations, is this also true for Skylines? I want to retain a fairly stock look (to avoid cop attention!!) so it'd be ideal if all vacuum fittings had connected hoses!

Any opinions, experiences or skyline specific install info for the Type S BOV would be appreciated!

thanx!

errr.. isn't the "whoooshing" sound just the sound u get from a pod. I doubt its the BOV leaking... although considering the age of the car it could be the stock bov spring has had its day which would cause it to leak.

Hey predator.....That's what I always thought, this is the first turbo car I've owned but a friend of mine who used to have an R32 reckons his never made the 'whooosh' to the same extent mine does (had same pod as me too)...Also I've driven his new (old!) car - DR30 Skyline turbo @12psi with atmo bov and pod filter and all I heard was engine revving + turbo spool, no whooshing...so nothing at all like mine, this is what makes me assume the BOV may be leaking.

as far as i know the stock BOV will leak after about 10psi

the whoosing will be coming from the POD that is installed on the car. If you are runing that amount of boost definetly go the aftermarket BOV. You should notice the difference and will hold boost a bit better too

my 2cents :D

good bov, fully adjustable so you can set where it lifts.

the second hosetail connector (the one pointing down in your pic) is used to help lift the valve when you have the spring tightened for high boost applications.

It works by plumbing it from in front of the throttle body (the other line connects to the plenum, as per normal) and when you take your foot off, it assists in pushing the valve open.

this allows you to tension the valve up higher than would otherwise be possible if you were using only vacuum to lift it off when the throttle shuts.

hope that makes sense.

Thanks for the response Frosty and for that technical info Steve, that's exactly what I was looking for! A couple of additional questions though - if I was to use the secondary vacuum fitting as you described (ie. from a source in front of the throttle body), would you have any recommendations as to where I could fit the hose into the std intercooler piping? Would it be a case of having to drill/weld in a fitting? And at what stage/boost level would this 'vacuum assistance' be useful?

Thanks!

well I have mine close to the BOV (I have a trust type R). I am not 100% where it would be useful. I plumbed it up after I started running 1.7 bar. I havent re-adjusted my spring tension, but it now lifts off at around 0.4bar, whereas before, it didnt lift until around 1 bar.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...