Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does anyone know if you can by a reasonably cheap mechanical Plumbed Fire Extinguisher Kit in aus?

In the UK they sell the following for about 100 pounds + shipping, however they all seem to be reluctant to send outside of the UK (I expect as we probably have different safety standards or something similar).

Mechanical plumbed in fire extinguisher

The cheapest thing through revolution racegear nsw is about 900 just for a canistar.

Anyone one know of similar kits sold in the UK that are available here?

I wouldn't expect they'd ship that standard freight as it's a pressure vessel, i.e, Dangerous Cargo.

In my opinion, you really still need to run a hand held or two, there'd be nothing worse than coming across a burning vehicle and you can do nothing because your fire fighting equipement is permanently installed in your car, 10 ft away but useless.

In fact, in rallying, you still need hand helds even if your car has an installed system for just that reason.

And I couldn't justify the weight of dragging both types around.

+1 to not being able to find anyone to ship a pressurised pressure vessel. When we fly with our paintball tanks (High pressure air ~4500psi), we remove the regulator so there is no chance the tank can hold any pressure.

P.S. http://www.summitracing.com/search/Departm.../?Ns=Rank%7cAsc

No way are you going to buy a "reasonably" priced mechanical plumbed priced one in Aust mate. I have one in my Radical which I would like checked out,,,but even that is pricey. Very few companys are qualified to re-change them here as well.

This revolutions kit is what I have,,,just a different brand but pricing is very reflective of the shit they have to go through.

http://www.revolutionracegear.com.au/index...rimary&CDO=

OH & S and the need for safety data sheets almost prohibit freighting them within this country let alone from overseas,,,which is quite funny because no-one bitches about them installed with the purchase of a car. My car came into the country with nothing said.

Ben's absolutely correct with regard to rallying,,,but if circuit racing is your game,,,head for the nearest marshall,,,rally's little 2 x 1 kilo things are basically only good for maybe getting the two humans safe. They have little to no chance of saving the car in a big one.

Cheers

Neil.

Another supplier just confirmed they won't ship given its a pressurised vessel. It makes sense I just didn't realise it earlier.

I thought it would just be handy to the plumbing into the engine bay for the price they were offering the kit at. Its just an old street car that will see occassional track days.

Given the price it would cost to do this in aus it just isn't worthwhile for my car's useage. Strange as it is a great cheap idea that lots of people are using O/S.

That setup you have Neil looks great and similar to the those UK and US kits just in 4litre size. Unbelievable about the price difference though.

  • 1 year later...

I have one in my Radical which I would like checked out,,,but even that is pricey. Very few companys are qualified to re-change them here as well.

Really?

Wormald / Chubb et al do installations into mobile equipment all the time - must be thousands of installations around the country, ranging up to a couple of hundred grand for some of them. Surely they'd be qualified to service and charge onboard systems. As for their pricing - well I have no idea what they would charge for that service (several grand a pop for mining gear)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...