Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I havnt been able to found out the problem yet, but when i begin to spool in my r32 gts-t 1989, it makes a screeching sound. It's not a screamer pipe. However the revious owner said i might be the hicas, although the hicas light does not come on when driving. My brother said it could also be my drive shaft? since the rubber has came off on the driver side.

Also My dash is screwed. It seems that every other part on the dash works, excpet the speedo. It is stuck on 107,880 and it wont tell you what speed your going at. It just stays on zero.

Help my out guys thanks

Edited by KinG_KonG
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343457-weird-sounds-when-spool-need-help/
Share on other sites

I had the same problem and thought it was my turbo going. Turned out it was just a TINY air leak where the BOV joins the crossover intake pipe. Would be fine under normal driving but once all the pressurised boost air was flowing it would make a screeching kinda noise out of a tiny hole.

Just had to take it off and put it back on, making sure it sealed properly hahaha.

I wouldn't think it would be a driveshaft issue, if it's ONLY happening as you start boosting.

As for the speedo, take your cluster out (check the tutorial section of the site) and make sure the big thick mechanical cable is plugged into the back of it - without it the speedo and odo won't work at all.

I had the same problem and thought it was my turbo going. Turned out it was just a TINY air leak where the BOV joins the crossover intake pipe. Would be fine under normal driving but once all the pressurised boost air was flowing it would make a screeching kinda noise out of a tiny hole.

Just had to take it off and put it back on, making sure it sealed properly hahaha.

I wouldn't think it would be a driveshaft issue, if it's ONLY happening as you start boosting.

As for the speedo, take your cluster out (check the tutorial section of the site) and make sure the big thick mechanical cable is plugged into the back of it - without it the speedo and odo won't work at all.

Thanks for the reply. Ill check the tutorial section. Before i do. Just thought id run it by you, that its only under load that it makes thats sound. If i rev in neutral it doesnt make that screaming sound. Still thinks its the bov? plus my car is bypassed the turbo so it doses.

if it was a leak in the cross over pipe like what mosquitocoils had then it would still only happen under boost as that is when the pressure is increased in the pipe and it is forcing air out which makes the noise. basically like whistling, just holding your mouth in the position doesn't make you whistle until you start blowing air out.

the other possibility which is also rather possible is that it is infact the turbo. it would be worthwhile for you to pull off the intake pipe and feel the turbo for any play. basically if you can move the shaft side to side a bit (small amount of movement is normal, but not too much), or backwards and fowards and it's stuffed.

i had the same thing under boost

tuned out to the the turbo exhaust flange nuts comming loose have to tighten them up every 2 years - tabs to hold the nuts in position are useless

only when boosting under load - at idle didnt do it

got pregressivly worse over a week or 2 while trying to work out what it was.

also check exhaust manifold bolts to the head - may have broken a stud

i had the same thing under boost

tuned out to the the turbo exhaust flange nuts comming loose have to tighten them up every 2 years - tabs to hold the nuts in position are useless

only when boosting under load - at idle didnt do it

got pregressivly worse over a week or 2 while trying to work out what it was.

also check exhaust manifold bolts to the head - may have broken a stud

sweet will do shaun, thanks for the help guys ill let you know what the problem was

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah they charge a little extra for mods , last year I noted no mods but I did have an exhaust fitted after that so  better to let them know cause these kinds of things can cause the policy to be void if you ever need to claim.
    • Hello, just just bought an 1999 enr34 with a stock rb25neo and I'm looking to upgrade the engine to 500whp I know some basic things but wondering if there are things I'll need to do to upgrade the stock block and all the bits and pieces to achieve this.
    • Thanks everyone for the replies and suggestions. Got the seats out (hoping I could find some existing grommets but no such luck). By tapping and measuring etc. I could figure out where I could drill through if needed. But first I borrowed an inspection camera and managed to go through factory holes in the chassis rail and could see that the captive nut was holding steady which is why it could retighten. So it was indeed a stripped section of thread, so I applied downforce by levering the bolt head with a screwdriver and went slowly back and forth until it came out. Camera helped a lot cos I could monitor that the captive nut was holding tight. Now I just have one very seized main subframe nut to tackle 😅
    • BOVs do have a purpose, if you ever log pressure before and after the throttle body, you will see a spike pre throttle on lift off from a WOT condition. Enough to bend throttle blades / damage e-throttle motors or simple assist in blowing off cooler pipes. FWIW, the above on really applies to those running at least 2 bar of boost. OP shouldn't have an issue, on the other hand, here are some videos of my shit box over a decade ago with some succulent dose with the airbox on and off. That shit box is unrecognisable these days 🫠    
    • I've tried all different combinations of BOVs/ no BOV and stock bypass valves over the years, on gear changes the stock bypass valve seems to get the car back on boost quicker because in part the turbos wheel speed isn't being slowed down by reversion, although they have issues holding boost much over the stock setting. Most aftermarket BOVs you can adjust the spring, tighter will make it open later and close sooner, but in my experience it'll cause a bit of flutter at low load/rpm anyway. I've also got some input into this whole no bov causing turbo wear, never had an issue on any on my turbos HOWEVER, I got my R33 GTST with 200k kms on it, with from what I can see still has the original turbo, no lateral shaft play but has about 4-5mm of play in and out which to me seems like a worn thrust bearing from years (100-150k kms?) of turbo flutter running no bov, so maybe there is some truth to it in the long run. But that'll never stop me loving the Stutututu while I have the car.   OP just wants to know if he can run a atmo vented BOV with no major issues and the answer is YES, plenty of people do it, there's no harm in installing it and seeing how it runs before spending $$$ on an aftermarket ecu, last time I bought a Nistune it was $2400 for install and a tune , unsure of todays prices but you get me. Crazy money to spend just to fix the minor inconvenience of stalling that can be overcome by letting the revs come down to near idle before putting the clutch in or a little bit of throttle to avoid it. You're better off leaving the ecu and tune for after a bigger turbo/injectors have been installed to take full advantage of the tune and get your moneys worth.   Let OP have his Whoosh sound without trying to break his bank haha
×
×
  • Create New...