Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just an EOI at the moment, as I am trying to sell my car and so far had no interest, I have thought about parting it out.

Now, this will be a complete S/C kit (all piping, I/C, etc) working as from my car and recently rebuilt last November (have receipt). Only thing is that the piggyback that came with it (Splitsecond FTC1) is having issues at the moment and instead of spending more money on the car which I am trying to sell. I might be selling the entire kit, without the FTC, which is a good thing because it will let you run other engine management systems like the Cobb Accessport, just plug into the OBD port, no need to splice any wires (my tuner hated the FTC1 because it was so difficult to tune). Will also include 3 different pulleys (for different boost) and new charger belt.

As mentioned, just an EOI at the moment, have not decided how much I am after as of yet. So, serious enquiries only

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/343981-eoi-vortech-sc-kit-for-v35350z/
Share on other sites

Just called up CAPA and its $8k for a brand new kit supplied. I would be after $5500 (plus your stock intake pipe :blush:) for the whole kit minus the FTC unit. I am quite reluctant to let this go as it is what makes the car, but if interested PM me and we can discuss. It made 343hp at 8psi on my car with a very conservative tune.

The kit is for the V35, but its the exact same kit for the 350z as well. Located in Perth.

Edited by R3N

i am negotiable on the price if you are seriously interested. bear in mind even in the US, most people go Vortech or Stillen for S/C and GReddy for TT, not many people touch the HKS kits, most common reason is that they don't put out much power. I haven't gone indepth into the different kits but I know what works and works well.

Im seriously interested pm me your best price, I know im being harsh but you can get turbonetics and voretch ones for 6k new from the states atm with the aussie doller. PLaces such as capa are still charging like a wounded bull for kits like this just because there in aus.

Yup, they are USD6k brand new in the states, add shipping, import duties and GST and you will get little change out of AUD7500.

I am negotiable on the price but will still want 5k at least otherwise its not worth me stripping it, plus I am reluctant to part it out as its already set up for the car and as I said its what makes the car, I just need a new piggyback which I will be ordering in the next few days if I don't get any serious interest for the price

  • 1 year later...

Still here and time to look at parting the car out. Asking $6000ono with brand new piggyback unit, new airfilter, belts, comes with 3 pulleys as mentioned in the first post. Have been serviced and resealed by Marks Workshop mid this year and has no leaks on the unit whatsoever

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...