Jump to content
SAU Community

Found Some Speakers That Fit Into Factory R33 Front Pods

james85

By james85,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

james85 Apprentice

james85

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey all,

I know most people are probably going to make spacers, but I found some pretty decent speakers that fitted into the stock front pods on a S2 R33, Polk DB651s.

They are actually pretty decent, and I was wanting to avoid splits.

http://www.polkaudio.com/caraudio/products...rs/6-1-2/db651/

There are two, standard and slim. I got standard, for $130.00. They have a tweeter in the middle of the cone that you can change the angle on a little.

Fitment wise, (minus wiring), they go straight in. There is a rubber gasket they come with that they come with, and you can still use the factory screws. No trimming/drilling of the factory pod required.

Wiring wise, I got some header plugs from Jaycar and soldered them to the speaker, then jammed these into the factory wiring. They weren't the best fit, but hopefully won't vibrate out.

Posted as I saw this question asked a few times when I searched and the only answer (some Phillips speakers) was from years ago. I tried Alpine Type S and some Sony 6.5 4 ways before these.

Edited by james85
james85 Apprentice

james85

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Ha ha,

Just re-reading my post and realised that. I meant 651's (plural), should have put 's. My apologies. Also just found out that I can't edit the post (too old).

Anyway, they're stock wiring into stock head unit. I'm using an old-school cassette tape to 3.5mm plug from 2001 to play MP3's. Rear's are still stock.

Bearing this all in mind, bass-wise I'd say they're acceptable, but not great. IMO better than alot of others I checked out including the Alpines. I think if I did the rears as well it would be much better, and probably better with a new head unit as I think it might be struggling a little. Higher frequencies sound pretty good though.

They basically sound like they're about as good as you can expect from the setup, and good enough that I think with the rears done I'll be more than happy. Won't be putting a better head unit in for a while though.

Edited by james85

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Unknown sound similar to BOV on positive boost with partial throttle RB26

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
    • MBS206
      remote oil cooler hose size, 8,10 or an12?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      -10 is plenty for running to an oil cooler. When you look at oil feeds, like power steering feeds, they're much smaller, and then just a larger hose size to move volume in less pressure. No need for -12. Even on the race cars, like Duncans, and endurance cars, most of them are all running -10 and everything works perfectly fine, temps are under control, and there's no restrictions.
    • nouveau_poor
      Unknown sound similar to BOV on positive boost with partial throttle RB26

      By nouveau_poor · Posted

      Update: O2 sensor in my downpipe turned out to be faulty when I plugged in to the Haltech software. Was getting a "open circuit" warning. Tons of carbon buildup on it, probably from when I was running rich for a while before getting it corrected. Replaced with new unit and test drove again. The shuffle still happens, albeit far less now. I am not able to replicate it as reliably and it no longer happens at the same RPM levels as before. The only time I was able to hear it was in 5th going uphill and another time in 5th where there was no noticeable incline but applying more throttle first sped it up and then cleared it. Then once in 4th when I slightly lifted the throttle going over a bump but cleared right after. My understanding is that with the O2 sensor out, the ECU relies entirely on the MAP tune and isn't able to make its small adjustments based on the sensors reading. All in all, a big improvement, though not the silver bullet. Will try validating the actuators are set up correctly, and potentially setting up shop time to tune the boost controller on closed loop rather than the open loop it is set to now. Think if it's set up on closed loop to take the O2 reading, that should deal with these last bits. Will try to update again as I go. 
×
×
  • Create New...