Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My GT-T has been off road for a while and I kick it over regularly. Recently there is a problem where it seems there isnt enough power to start car, however it will sometimes kick over perfectly if the leads are off battery for a while and i clean them and reconnect. If the leads stay on the battery for say 6 hours or more car wont start.

When this occurs, there is a blue flashing light and a clicking noise from inside engine bay and right side dash, this leads me to believe battery problem.

I have checked the battery and shop has also tested it and is in perfect cond.

I find it weird that the car will start when termianls are left off battery for a while but wont start after a while.

If anyone has any similar problems with a solution or any points that can help me out would be appreciated.

** Also there is a side issue where the stock cd player will not turn on. I have checked the acc fuse for radio, as well as taking the stereo out to see if there was a direct line fuse which doesnt appear to have one. Possibly blown up while jump starting? Im not sure on this one either.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/344022-r34-electricalignition-problem/
Share on other sites

You probably have an alarm thats sucking the battery juice down over time... or your sterio.

I only get around a week at best, 2-3 days if i leave my computer powered on (even though it's in hibernation).

simple problem...

Yeah, its just weird tho when battery is fully charged and reconnect terminals, leave them on and not to start say 5 hours later, but if disconnect terminals and not charge battery, reconnect later and starts fine...

EDIT: No alarm on car.

Edited by Cazeres

your faulty sterio could be sucking battery juice down...

terminals not connected means nothing can discharge the battery.

terminals connected means any short, or faulty equipment COULD be leaking current, causing battery drain

There is a loud ticking noise coming from a box under right side of dash just accross from steering column. Im not sure if this is a standard unit or aftermarket, There is no alarm on the car and I have never had to use anything for an immobiliser, but this seems a bit suspicious to me.

Yeah i have since sorted out the stereo problem. (Fuse was corroded a little under bonnet)

Im about to test another battery in the car, this has been my suspicion all along but our charger says good and the shops charger says good.

The problem definately lies with this box. When car will start no noise, when car wont start loud ticking noise coming from this box and a click from fusebox.

Can anyone tell me if these are standard on a 34 or possibly an immobiliser?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
×
×
  • Create New...