Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

This is really simple, Group order for RB forged pistons.

1 Piston kit = $1100 (Shipping Included)

3 or more = $1000 (Shipping Included)

Heres a link to the Wiseco Catalog:

http://www.wiseco.com/PDFcatalogs/sc-niss.pdf

Also, all piston kits are Teflon coated (Worth $200) for Free. They include: Gudgeon pins, rings & seals, Clips. everything you need.

Orders will take a couple of weeks to arrive, (As they come from US).

So far i have sold 1 kit on this forum (il see if i can get him to vouch for me), and over 12 kits privatly.

If you are intrested, please email me the KIT number you need, (from the wiseco catalog) and your details.

Cheers,

Trev.

[email protected]

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34408-wiseco-forged-pistons/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I can highly recommend Trev, i ordered a set of pistons from him and he was very helpfull and they arrived when he said they would and he kept me informed all the way, top quality product for a very nice price.

Sure Dave,

I will set a cutoff date for the group buy 4 weeks from now.

If your still intrested in a single purchase i will get in touch with you. (The way the Aussie dollar is trading, you might get it @ 1K anyways, but we will see what happens within the next month)

Stolen...

You dont need these.

The only time you would buy these are if you are planning to run some big HP (Lots of boost 19PSI +) application, or doing a serious motor rebuild.

You wouldnt "install" them for the sake of it, as there is no direct performance increase from doing so. The cost for a mechanic to rebuild your bottemend would be in the 3K (Labor) area for him to take your motor out install forgies and put it back together properly. (Machining costs, bearings, lineing rings & seals, headgaskets etc)

drop me a line when you blow it up! ;)

You havent seen under my bed, ive been stockpilling for the big upgrade, ive got the turbs, engine managment fuel pump, injectors and a few other bits and pieces. Still gotta get cams and a few other bits. thought id grab these as they are at such a great price. if you can always provide a decent price then i guess youll hear from me in a month or two. Thanks for the advice...

Is the motor coming out? if the motor is comeing out then its worth while doing. All these parts you have bought are bolt-ons, and you can get away with installing all of those parts without pulling the motor out.

These are the best price you will get in aus, there still $150 cheaper than the cheapest place i could find in aus. (Thats if you buy a single set) And a $250 saving for the group buy.

I sell these pistons to engine worksops. And they are still much cheaper than any trade price all of them have heard of.

I dont think i will be doing this next month, its rather stressful and time consuming. If you want a set of forgies, now is the time.

FYI:

If you are re-building a RB25 or RB30/25, the piston kit you requier is K578M87. This will give you a CR of around 8.0:1 - 8.5:1

If you still need higher comp you can deck your block, or the bottem of your head.

Cheers,

Trev

I dont understand why you people are so caught up in running exactly 9.0:1 CR!!??

(No flame intended in this post)

8.5:1 is Perfect, its not low enough to affect off boost drivability. And you have the flexability of running more boost, with less ping.

Most people, run jap gaskets to try and achieve a CR of around 8.5:1... And on a RB30 block youl have the displacment to help you out in the lower end of the rev range anyway, not to mention the GTT head to make it flow like crazy aswell.

Holden VL Turbos (Single over head cam, RB30) From Factory run a CR of 7.9:1

Just thought i would throw that in to bring some perspective to my argument. I will prove off boost performace when my RB30/25 is finsihed in a few weeks. (Dyno printout)

I would really like to get in for a set of these for my rb25det but i need to rip my engine out first to check the condition of my bore's.

I hopefully should have that done by the end of next week.

While i would like to keep my 9:1 c/r(yes yes i'm a sheep too) the catalog says 8.0-8.4 c/r. it would be ok if it was 8.4-8.5 but i dont really think i would like to drop down to 8:1 as i do not intend to run stupid amounts of boost and i like the way the car used to drive down low. :rolleyes:

Also is the Sr20 kit (K557M865) the same price or cheaper?

I might be able to get a friend in for one aswell.

John

Hi Mesmer,

If your cylinders are in good shape and only need a light hone then get the K578M865 Kit (.020 Oversize), this will get you as close to the 8.4:1 mark as possable. Then machine the deck (Top) of your block, and take a little off the bottem of the head. Not only will this ensure that you will get a perfect head/block seal, but you will get your CR up to around 8.6:1 - 8.7:1 :rolleyes:

I sent a email to my supplier just before regarding the SR20 Kit, (i think its cheaper than 1K) i will inform you of the price for the SR20 kit as soon as i hear from him.

Mesmer, if you and your freind buy and Dave i will end this group buy early. (Or whenever is most convienient for you guys) :(

Also guys i can get ANY Wiseco piston, Audi, BMW, Chevy, Clevland, Ford... ANYTHING with a Wiseco Part number.

Cheers,

Trev

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...