Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

These come with coated (Teflon) skirts, (Silent on startup, less wear on pistons)

Also these come with Ductile Iron Plasmamoly coated rings, (Alot stronger than normal Chomemoly rings, that most forged pistons come with)

If your in let me know, Im trying to organise it all for this week. And if you come into the deal final price for everyone is $1050.

Cheers,

Trev

Sorry dude, price isnt set by me. :D

Also, these pistons are fantastic. I can vouch for them personaly, & im sure Clint can aswell...

These arent your normal forged piston,

Wiseco garentee that all pistons tolerances are less than one-half-of-one-thousandths of and inch (.0005). Your normal forgies arent....

Aswell as Ductile Iron Plasmamoly coated rings, as apposed to normal Chromemolys that most forgies use.

Also, you wont get your piston skirts coated for free, and give it to you for $950 deliverd to your door. :P

If your still intrested, send me a email [email protected]

Cheers,

Trev

Also for all the people bitching in a email to me, about "price" ... (You know who you are)

SERIOUSLY.... If you think you can get a better quality piston for a better price, GO FOR IT!

Im sick to death reply to emails that say.

"My motor builder says that XXXX piston is better... BLAH BLAH BLAH"

I sell these pistons to over 13 Diffrent engine builders & Machinists (Many of which have Top fuelers) because they cant get this price "Trade". If i was your engine builder i would be saying these are crap too! i would love to make an extra 250 bucks out of you.

If your not intrested in buying a quality piston, at a dirt cheap price, thats ok by me. Im not doing any more "group buys, or forum sales" after this one. Because i dont need the extra stress for 3-4 buys, that i allmost loose money on. I respect the people that havent stuffed me around and have asked geniune questions & purchases.

Rant over,

Trev

  • 5 weeks later...

hmm ok

I was looking foward to getting one of these kits as they are much better quality then some of the other cheap ones around.

I have no problem with price, quality, etc i just need pistons.

Would you deal with my engine builder?

If you will or feel like helping me out please e-mail me back at [email protected]

Thanks

John

  • 4 weeks later...
il email you tonight,

Cheers,

Trev

Trev,

I saw that you'd had the jam sucked out of your donut by timewasteing tyre kickers (being polite). Fair enough, I know how you feel.

I, however, don't waste peoples time. I'm picking up an RB30 in a week. I will be rebuilding it with forgies, prepped rods (only want 300 at the wheels...). It is a sure thing.

Can you still get piston sets?

I can't tell you what size until I rip the engine down and measure the bores to see how much over I need to go to straighten them up again.

If yes, good. If no, any tips?

Thanks mate,

Adrian

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
    • Yeah that looks like great caster, but I'd suggest trying less front camber some time and seeing if it helps with braking without reducing mid corner speed too much
    • I ended up setting the rear 5mm higher than normal to give some clearance.  My plan is to run the least camber I can in the rear which I think with the extra width is going to need to be -1.75 to -2.00° just to get clearance.  Guards have been rolled and pulled as much as they can/I would be wanting to.  front has the Acostal knuckle with the KPI change and the drop etc. So should be okay with the existing settings I have run with AR1s etc Front: Toe total -2mm(1mm out each side) Caster +7.5° Camber -3.8° Ackerman +15°
×
×
  • Create New...