Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1991 SILEIGHTY

PICS: http://www.pandablue.com/nissansilvia/foru...4917&PN=1&TPN=1

Engine Modifications

· RB20DET 5 Speed Manual

· 0.80 BAR Boost

· Pod Filter with Cold Air Partition

· HKS Super Dragger Cat-Back Exhaust (85mm)

· 3” Hi-Flow Cat

· R33 GTR Fuel Pump

· ARE Hot Chilli Type 28 Front Mount Intercooler – Tube & Fin (610 x 300 x 75 mm core) with Hot Chilli End Tanks

· 2 ½” Inlet & 2 ¼” Outlet Mild Steel Piping with Blue Silicone Hose and T-Bolt Clamps

· Intercooler Water Spray – 2 Nozzles & Rocket Switch

· Custom ARE Triple Filtered OAS

· Garage Titan Customised RB20DET BOV

Suspension & Drive Train Modifications

· URAS Urethane Drift Pineapples set to “All Round” & URAS Urethane Gearbox Mount

· CUSCO 2 Way Mechanical Diff, 4.363 : 1 - 5000km old ($11000 with OEM LSD)

· UAS Master Brake Cylinder Brace

· Custom Front Strut Brace

· New (2000km) Bronzed 3 Puck Sprung clutch with 2200lbs (1000kg) Pressure Plate & High Tensile Bolts - 5000km old

· Machined Stepped Flywheel, New Thrust Bearing & New Pivot

· Reconditioned Clutch Master & Slave Cylinders

Interior Modifications

· HKS Type 1 Turbo Timer

· Blitz Dual SBC – Blue & Silver Version

· Relocated Battery – Boot with Maxiblade Fuse Holder & 80A Maxiblade Fuse

· CUSCO Drift Hand Brake Button – Silver

· LEVOC Racing Pedals – Silver

· Blue Neon lights in foot well

· Polished Aluminum Ball gear knob with 6 blue LED’s

Exterior Modifications

· S13 Silvia Front End Panels

· S13 3 Style Projector head lights (with fog lights) – 2 Circle, 1 Square

Wheels & Brake Modifications

· R32 GTS-t 5 Stud Brakes (front & rear – rotors & calipers)

· S14 Hubs – ABS

· R33/S14 Rims with Goodyear F1 225/50/16 rubber

Alarm & Sound System Modifications

· Viper Stage 5M Alarm – Microwave Sensors, 3 Point Immobiliser with Black Wiring

· Stock Nissan CD Player

The usual, regularly serviced:

New diff oil

New gearbox oil

New engine oil - Mobil 1

New power steering fluid

New brake fluid

New clutch fluid

Cleaned pod filter

Cleaned AFM

New & Re-gapped plugs - 0.8mm

New fuel filter

New oil filter

Timing belt changed when conversion was done (less then 10000km ago)

New Power Steering Pump, Alternator, Water pump & Battery

etc.

Has also a sunroof, air conditioning, power mirrors, power windows, 4WS (HICAS), and ABS (very rare). All the options

Done a genuine ~75000km's

Rego till 10/2004, Very good condition as it hasn't been abused.

All fully engineered with certificate for suspension, exhaust, engine, etc. Can provide reciepts. Majority of the work has been carried out by Greg at Autosport Engineering in Sydney.

$12,000

OPEN TO OFFERS - MUST SELL

Can sell cheaper with the removal of parts.

Email: [email protected]

Mob: 0407 179 830

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/34411-fs-1991-rb20det-sileighty-12000-ono/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi everyone, I'm about to complete my first single turbo conversion on my R32 GTR and I thought I would post the step by steps that I will be following. I will list the parts I have / the parts I will be buying. I will be redoing this guide after I have completed the conversion. Parts list: - 3576 turbo 0.82 v-band (coolant and oil)  - v-band top mount turbo manifold - 50mm wastegate - manifold copper gasket - titanium manifold stud kit - turbosmart 3 port boost solenoid - link can lambda kit (wideband) - link ECU - radium 12AN push in valve cover fittings (pair) - hi octane catch can - 3.5inch downpipe - screamer pipe - pipe from turbo to intercooler - intake pipe setup - power steering relocation kit - oil drain block off plate - coolant and oil lines Now onto the step by step guide (please add / correct me if there's anything I missed: 1. remove fluids, twin turbo pipes, pod filters and afm's 2. remove the factory coolant hardlines from the hot side. 3. remove heat shields  4. remove the downpipe 5. remove turbos and manifolds 6. remove factory manifold studs 7. clean whatever mess you have made 8. install power steering relocation kit 9. install new manifold studs 10. install new turbo manifold with gasket 11. install new wastegate with screamer pipe 12. install new turbo  13. install new coolant and oil lines  14. install rear oil drain block off plate 15. stop and appreciate that you now have a single turbo in your GTR 16. wipe away tears of joy and install downpipe 17. install the wideband sensor into downpipe 18.install pipe to connect turbo to intercooler 19 .remove stock boost solenoid  20. install new boost solenoid 21.  install intake setup 22. setup the rest of the can lambda kit with the ecu  23. refill fluids and hope for the best 24. ask forums for help with issues 25. fix issues 26. drive your single turbo swapped r32 GTR into the sunset. Doneeeeeeeeeee. Now I know this isn't detailed at all but I will be doing that when the conversion is done. I will be posting pics and any helpful details i can and ill make sure to fit in as much information as I can. If there's anything I should know before i do this PLEASE let me know. Stay tuned for what's next. Thanks...
    • I have wasted too much time on this, more than I am willing to admit. I hope someone can set the record straight for me.  I want to replace my Nismo (non GT pro, non GT) standard 2 way in my R33 GTST with a 1.5 way... Ideally I want to get an ATS 1.5 way Carbon LSD, but I don't want to reuse my 29 spline 5x1 axle stubs, and new 30 spline 5x1's are impossible to get a hold of ($$$), and I don't want to drop the cash on going to 6x1 stubs and axles ATM. Which leads me to the Nismo GT Pro 38420-RSS15-B5 or RSS20, as they come with new axle stubs meant for the diff, and is "Convertible" from a 2 way or 1.5 way to "Other ways", but that is where I am stuck as the documentation is a bit all over the place.  To sum up what I have found I believe the all the Nismo GT Pro PN's are convertible from 2 way, 1.5 way, and 1 way; but Nismo sells 2 skus (2 & 1.5) so people do not have to disassemble to convert it.  I found this thread on 350z but it left the question unanswered. https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-drivetrain/620032-nismo-gt-pro-lsd-1-5-vs-2-way-and-torque.html  Essentially the way I think it all works out is like follows...  2 way  1 way  and 1.5 way would be the center pinion shaft in the 1 way block, but with the with the center flipped 180*. So the ramped side of the pinion would face the 1 way gate and act like a ramp.    I can only get my hands on the 2 way in the states, and I am not trying to get stuffed on tariffs by ordering from Japan or anywhere else. I want to confirm that if I get the 2 way I can convert it to the 1.5.     
    • Hi everyone, I have purchased my first GTR and I want to do a single turbo conversion to it. I've been doing as much research as i can and there are a few things that I can find and need to know. I need to run a coolant feed, coolant return, oil feed and oil return for my turbo setup. Here's what I know so far: On the hot side of the rb26 there is coolant feed, oil feed and oil return. Coolant return will be going around the front of the engine to where the thermostat is located. I will need to block off the rear oil return port. I will be running a turbosmart boost solenoid so any of the factory boost stuff wont be needed. Now onto what I don't know: 1. What do I do with the coolant / vacuum hardlines that run around the back of the motor?. 2. What do I block off or loop or move or remove?. I will be running the OEM intake manifold. 3. Is there anything in particular I need to buy for the cold side of the rb26?. I already have the intercooler and pipes sorted. If you have any pictures or information it would be appreciated. Thanks....  
    • The fab work can be as simple as a couple of silicon hoses and clamps to the factory piping. 
    • Just sounds like either way you need to do some fab work to get everything to fit, so why limit yourself at that point? If the GCG high flow option is zero effort in and out swap though I'd probably do that. It's almost certainly lowest risk, lowest cost, etc. The HKS GTIII-RS option that Kapr mentioned is laughably expensive for what it is, they charge the exact same for two turbos on the RB26 so their margins are off the charts on that thing.
×
×
  • Create New...