R33 Central Door Locks Security Flaw Fix

[tiberis]

A Fix for the security flaw in R33 Skylines.

For those who have an R33 skyline and have central locking. There is a bit of a security flaw/ oversight from Nissan due to the way the door lock controller operates/ the location of the switch. This solution worked for me and i have favoured it over other examples from SAU and the like because it retains a lot of the original functionality. The fix i have here basically disables the switch when the driver door is locked.

So a little more technical detail for those interested:

The idea behind this and how it works is that the controller has a wire to be able to sense the state (locked or unlocked) of the driver's door. I am using this signal wire to effectively connect or disconnect the unlock function of the central locking switch.

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Do this at your own risk, it's pretty simple but if you screw it up, it's your fault i am more than willing to answer any questions or offer assistance.

You can download this as a word doc if you want to view it offline or store your own copy.

REMEMBER you are dealing with locks here... always make sure you have your keys on your person or have a spare.

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Tools Needed: · Screwdriver (Phillips #2, some mid sized flat head)

· Soldering iron

· Clippers

Parts Needed:

· Relay (rated 12V obviously, doesn't need to do much current)

· Spare bits of wire (need like 3 colours if you want to be awesome like me)

Process:

Step 1:

Take out glove box and plastic surround. This where they hide the "Smart Entrance" control module. btw it's a small black box to the left of where the glove box was, maybe about 6cm square. You will need to disconnect/ remove the box, the harness plug thing has a weird latch over system which you need to figure out.

Step 2:

Cut the brown wire! This is where most other "solutions" stop, which is disappointing, but anyways. This brown wire is the 'unlock' signal from the switch on the door panel. What we need to do here is to solder on some wire and put spade socket lugs on them (well, for my type of relay it has spades so that's why I did). The picture below shows the wire cut and extra (blue) wire soldered on to BOTH parts of the wire.

Step 3:

Take out the guts from the control box. We need to connect to a couple of the wires that are on the harness and I figured it would be easier to solder onto the inside of the box than to cut more wires. The 2 wires we want are the thicker gauge cream coloured wire and the thin gauge cream wire. (the thick one is constant +12V and the thin one is the sensor wire from the driver's door). The picture below shows how I connected the wires onto the back of the socket (thick cream wire is in red and thin is in yellow).

For reference on the inside, the red wire is soldered to the thick contact closest to the centre and the yellow is soldered to the 2^nd contact in from the left.

Again, I put spade sockets on the other ends of these wires for my relay.

Step 4:

Attach the relay. I have a pic here of the relay I used, it's far far overkill in terms of current (this thing does like 20/30A) but it's what I had handy. The wiring up of the relay is also rather simplistic. The red and yellow wires you have connected will go to the coil of the relay (it's a coil so it doesn't matter which way they are connected) in my relay it's contacts 85 and 86.

The blue wires I made in step 2 will now connect to the switching part of the relay, in particular the NO (normally open) contacts, again doesn't matter which way around it goes, and for me the contacts I wanted were 30 and 87.

Step 5:

It should all be done! And look something like this (except maybe neater):

Now to double check that it's operating properly:

Drivers door is unlocked:

The central locking switch should work normally.

Drivers door is locked:

The central locking switch should let you lock but not unlock.

[89CAL]

Nice write up mate, That looks like a very good mod to do

Might have to give it a go

Dont suppose you have any ideas on how to make the auto-lock (over 25km/h) from happening and lets you keep your demister as well? lol

Either way, well done, great mod

[tiberis]

Cheers.

Personally i like the auto-lock, but each to their own.

I wouldn't mind finding out myself, just for future reference and there has to be a way to manage it... i mean i just created a way to stop the security flaw and keep base functionality.

I would imagine one of those dozen other wires going into the control box needs to be... "dealt with" in some fashion.

I will look into it when i get a chance, although i'm off to Melb for the next week or so, so it might be a while before i get time to play with my car.

[89CAL]

as far as Im aware its the green wire into that box that does the auto-lock but for some reason if you cut it you lose your rear demister?

it removes the auto lock and everything else works as normal just not the demister, At least thats how i remember it. I cut that wire along time ago and connected it back not long after lol.

Its become annoying for me and passangers. Only the passenger side used to lock in my car but now for whatever reason they both lock... Sometimes just on startup. Bit weird but oh well lol

[tiberis]

green eh?

i know one of the light green wires was from the lock signal from the switch on the door (the other wire that pairs with the brown i had cut above)

But from the pics i can see a darker green wire...

Thanks for the heads up, i am now intrigued enough to really want to find this out...

[89CAL]

Theres something on here about it anyway. If you want I can have a look which one I cut anyway

Let me know If you need me to have a look