Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just gauging interest on a group buy for HID (xenon) conversion kits.

Evolution R sell them for $690 (installed) with a 1 year warranty.

Depending on the numbers, we may be able to get a good discount.

Is there any interest in these?

Planning on doing the buy in about 6 - 8 months (It's a fair whack of cash).

Jason.

(these are NOT the kits we would be getting, but they have a fancy flash animation which shows the difference between halogen and xenon)

http://www.sportsimportsltd.com/hidxenon.html

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

RedlineGTR: That link is NOT a link to the brand we would be purchasing (as said in my first post). I am not sure of the brand we're looking at, will find out ASAP and post a link to those.

okay i know it's not the ones you guys are looking at getting, BUT if all HID's run as only one type of light, meaning you can't get high beam, say u get a yellow sticker? ur not gonna pass because you don't have high beams that work, and it's gonna cost alot more money to take them out put the stockers back on so you can pass :)

Just trying to put things in perspective :)

adrian :D

adrian is right, he has named the reasons as i would stay away from them. :D

600 big ones is a bit for something that you may have to take off if a cop wants to be a tosser.... but i spose we spend that money on wings and stuff.... but they are a bit more dramatic than headlights... :)

cops probably won't pick up on them, but the pit engineers will for sure, simply because you don't have any highbeams! good luck passin with absolutely no highbeams :bonk:

jennay(mike), from what i have read up on HID it works as one ultra bright light, hence there being no option to alter between low beam and high beam :)

adrian :)

um.....

from the rollaboyz organised shambly pits legality info night, the pits engineers didnt have any problem with xenon lights, provided they ran on a relay, not off your standard light-wires. their position was that the current drawn was too great, and could result in melting of the wires, which in turn could start a fire.

in an R33, the high beam is not actually in your normal driving lights anyways. you will notice that when you put high beams on, the lights switch from the ones on the outside to the ones on the inside.... so I dont think the pits will have any issues provided that everything is done properly...

the pits say alot of things that they tend to take back.............

the pit engineers check to see whether your high beams are working, if your answer is i don't have highbeams i don't think that complies with being roadworthy :)

adrian :)

Like zanda said... if these only go in your normal headlights.. what's the big deal? Your existing high beams are still there anyway....

Although Xenon lights sound enticing.... I'd probably give this one a miss, as _really_ they're just headlights!

jase,

your best bet would be to go and tak to them in welshpool, when theyre quiet.

tell them what you're doing and let them get to know your face.

based on what they indicated to us at the night, they will not give you anything in writing because with borderline installs they want to reserve the right to tell you that your wiring is dangerous.

however, they clearly indicated that provided they are installed correctly there should not be a problem. the guy doing the talk noted that there are a number of euros using them as standard items now, and since then I think even commodores have been including them as a factory option.

given that there isnt an issue with highbeam (as discussed) you shouldnt have a problem.

However....

he did tell a funny anecdote about some guy who had installed them and the cops pulled him up for having melted plastic lenses. they melted because of the extra heat given off....

....R33 headlights have plastic lenses.....

yeah, that was one concern I had, so I'm going to do a bit of research in to it before I jump in to it.

I live 2 minutes from the East Perth pits, so I'll probably drop by there and have a chat with them

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
    • Been a busy but productive day. Axle and hubs acquired. All fitted up after a bit of modifying. Need to sort out wider mudguards and running light reflector covers but other than that the trailer is gooood to go !!
    • Selling a SMIC for a Nissan Stagea C34 Series 2 and the pipe from the intercooler to inlet. (I believe it is the same R34 GTT, please correct me if I'm wrong) Price: $50? I dont have a photo of the big black pipe that goes from SMIC outlet to throttle body.
    • So the original radiator is leaking now. Looking at getting a fully aluminium one next. Am I correct in saying that the Series 2 Auto Stageas have a separate trans cooler from factory (located in between the rad and intercooler in my previous post/message).   Currently looking at Fenix $460, Blitz $700, GReddy $800, and KoyoRad $740. What are everyones thought on Fenix ( ive read a few comments saying theyre cheap Chinese rebrands etc and how their build quality is... well.. chinese...)  compared to the others? Worth the extra couple hundies?
×
×
  • Create New...