Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys.

Recently blew the bulb in the right-hand side headlight. I've been doing a bit of a search and people have been saying that you have to get 'D2R' headlight bulbs or something?

Can I not just buy the bulbs that they sell down at the local Supercheap or Repco?

Also getting the bulbs in.. Seems quite tricky since I can't really fit my fingers anywhere near the back of the bulb holder. What's the easiest way to replace the bulbs?

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/345092-replacing-headlight-bulbs-r34/
Share on other sites

Remove you battery and you should have plenty of room,

did mine a couple of weeks back,

just unscrew the dust cap and sqeeze the spring clip change it and put everything back.

are you using the factory xenon plugs or normal halogen globes?

try ebay,

i bought a HID kit for mine, both headlights for about $60, so a globe should be next to nothing,

just make sure you get the right globe.

HID globes from auto shops anre upwards from $200 depending on what type of globe

How the heck is there such a massive difference in prices for these? ZXY you said you paid $40, whilst R34Mobster paid $275 for a pair and I paid $308 for ONE! I'll wait till I get it from the shop next monday and will update you guys.

did xspeed sell it to you? If so try and take it back cause they've taken advantage of you. As others have said hop on eBay or find a trader on here you can get 2 for less than 100

Edited by gersfan
How the heck is there such a massive difference in prices for these? ZXY you said you paid $40, whilst R34Mobster paid $275 for a pair and I paid $308 for ONE! I'll wait till I get it from the shop next monday and will update you guys.

you need to do research before paying that type of money. $308 is alot of money for a bulb. If you went to dealers, i doubt it would even have been that much.

  • 2 years later...

pull out one of your current bulbs and have a look. on it you should see some code/model number, and some of that should contain "D2R" if you're lucky. If so, then yeah it's the right bulb you linked on ebay. if you're not sure then chuck up a pic for us here and we can verify for you. also, i should mention that if you want to go the Japanese spec, search up garax HID on ebay, they are great bulbs.

pull out one of your current bulbs and have a look. on it you should see some code/model number, and some of that should contain "D2R" if you're lucky. If so, then yeah it's the right bulb you linked on ebay. if you're not sure then chuck up a pic for us here and we can verify for you. also, i should mention that if you want to go the Japanese spec, search up garax HID on ebay, they are great bulbs.

Ahhh, ok, well just got the car few days ago, so will defs take a pic and put it here so can verify what bulb, just gotta see how I take it out haha xD

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
    • I am truly amazed someone on this planet was able to cycle the pump using a scan tool. I've always ghetto cycled them on Nissan 90s shit boxes by slamming the brakes and pulling the handbrake to agitate the rear wheels enough to cause a speed difference
×
×
  • Create New...