Jump to content
SAU Community

In-car Dvd Player Repair Work

skyline_freak_r33

By skyline_freak_r33,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

skyline_freak_r33 Community Regular

skyline_freak_r33

Posted
Posted

Hi guys,

Basically i've been running this Jensen VM9512 which was running in my mates car for over a year and not had any problems. I ended up buying it off him and had it in my car for nearly half a year. It has been an amazing headunit but for some reason the screen has decided to stop lighting up. The touch works and the unit functions work but the back screen doesnt light up. I'm not very good with working with electronics and wondering is anyone prepared to have a look at it. I'm prepared to pay for someone to have a look at it/repair it and drop it off to you. I was talking to my mates aunty at cartoys and she reckons it could be something small because the actual touch is working.

P.S Sorry about sticking it in this area, but i couldn't find an appropriate area within the SA forums area.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/345224-in-car-dvd-player-repair-work/
Share on other sites
Tommy Kaira RL Mentor

Tommy Kaira RL

Posted
Posted

I can have a look at it for you. Do you have any picture on the screen at all. The touch function is an overlay on top of screen. So this can work without the restof the screen. It could be the ribbon that connects the screen or the screen has blown. Does the screen change to a different shade of black when you turn it on or does it stay the same as if it were off. If the screen changes a shade of black then its most probably stuffed screen or if it dosent do anything it could be the ribbon not supplying the screen. Hope that helps

skyline_freak_r33 Community Regular

skyline_freak_r33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

cheers well when the screen opens up it remains black. It doesn't change it may be the ribbon as you mentioned. Where abouts are you located? i don't mind dropping it off and paying for you to have a look at it. Thanks

Carbon 34 Grand Master

Carbon 34

Posted
Posted (edited)

move to the audio section please

Is your backlight is dimmed all the way down ? some models can, others no ?

or you have a bad connection to the actual LCD output (very fragile and easy to stuff up ) or bad backlight for the LCD. sometimes just a loose connection easy fix, or a bad voltage convertor that powers the backlight in that case if you can't see the damage, your better off buying a new radio for the cost of repairs out of warranty can get huge for a cheap radio to start with ?

have you contact Jensen ? they have tech support ? Try the customer service link

if its out of warranty I can look at it for the obvious problems (for a cold beer) if you pull it out of the car first ?

did this start yesterday while parked in the heat ?????

Edited by sapphiregraphics
Tommy Kaira RL Mentor

Tommy Kaira RL

Posted
Posted
cheers well when the screen opens up it remains black. It doesn't change it may be the ribbon as you mentioned. Where abouts are you located? i don't mind dropping it off and paying for you to have a look at it. Thanks

Im out near golden grove but like sapphiregraphics said it would cost the same as buying a new one. Im happy to power it up and look at it or you can show me in your car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • Duncan
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By Duncan · Posted

      ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...