Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys just wondering someone is going to sell me a shimmed up diff that is really tight, but they reckon if i put it in my car because its a non turbo that ill need to buy turbo drive shafts?

What you guys think? and what would happen if i dont change the drive shafts

ive got a R33 Series 2 1996

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/345474-diff-question/
Share on other sites

If its shimmed really tight and acts like a locker/welded diff then it probably wouldnt hurt to put some turbo drive shafts on. The non turbo ones are a bit smaller and having a locked diff does put alot of strain on the drive train

Be mindful that the non turbo driveshafts from memory have the 3x2 pattern on the diff (a set of 2 bolts in 3 places around the diff) So you may be required to change the CV's on the axle to get the diff end fine...

Im not sure about the hub end if theres a difference between the spline's in the CV or not......

personal opinion but... Unless your going to drift it, leave your diff in there or just get a standard LSD. Locked Diffs feel rough, draw alot of attention, and puts more stress on everything

Edited by 89CAL
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/345474-diff-question/#findComment-5566035
Share on other sites

If its shimmed really tight and acts like a locker/welded diff then it probably wouldnt hurt to put some turbo drive shafts on. The non turbo ones are a bit smaller and having a locked diff does put alot of strain on the drive train

Be mindful that the non turbo driveshafts from memory have the 3x2 pattern on the diff (a set of 2 bolts in 3 places around the diff) So you may be required to change the CV's on the axle to get the diff end fine...

Im not sure about the hub end if theres a difference between the spline's in the CV or not......

personal opinion but... Unless your going to drift it, leave your diff in there or just get a standard LSD. Locked Diffs feel rough, draw alot of attention, and puts more stress on everything

alright thanks heaps for letting me know man, i'll ask the guy whos going to do it more questions because i hardly know anything about this stuff all i wanted it for is for skating and stuff like that because my lsd i had in my car wore out straight away and now its an open diff always singles out and stuff so annoying

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/345474-diff-question/#findComment-5568425
Share on other sites

skating?

like drifting....?

A heavily shimmed diff should only be used for competition drift not street drift. If your going to drift in the street, and I dont suggest you do.... Just get a standard R33 GTST diff and use it along with the axles.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/345474-diff-question/#findComment-5568467
Share on other sites

skating?

like drifting....?

A heavily shimmed diff should only be used for competition drift not street drift. If your going to drift in the street, and I dont suggest you do.... Just get a standard R33 GTST diff and use it along with the axles.....

yeah not full on drifitng just like for doing round abouts and going side to side down the street, i ended up getting a 2-Way very tight shimmed diff with 4:11 diff gear ratio and with the turbo drive shafts, im inlove with it i must say hahah

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/345474-diff-question/#findComment-5569592
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That looks good, but I think you're going to need much beefier side skirts now.
    • They are daft and there's a reason it never caught on. Steering feel? We don't need no stinking steering feel!
    • I gotta pull you up on this. It's driving me crazy. A shutter is something that closes, like over a window or in a cmera. The word you want is shudder. That LSD is clearly f**ked. Take it to a diff shop and get it disassembled and examined by an expert. YOu might have plates welded together or something equally crazy.
    • Define "starting to fail". Wy not just rebuild them?
    • Check the Nistune doco. There are a few assumptions being made here that might not be valid. I will list the things that occur to me: Base map. Base map for what? Base map for Z32? Then the cranking pulse width is probably wrong for an RB25. The extra 500cc of capacity might well be enough to prevent it from catching. Base map for RB25? I don't think you can load one of those into a Z32. You have to just make the settings correct for an RB25 in the Z32 base map. That is either K or the TIM to get the pulsewidth right. Loom. You bought a loom for an RB. And you plugged it into a Z32 ECU. Did you make sure that any iwre differences were swapped. From memory, there's at least a couple. And as per the others, I would suggest making sure that the fuel pressure is correct while cranking and that the injectors are actually flowing as expected. They really must come out and go on the bench, unless you do find that you have messed up as per above points. I would also suggest watching in Nistune to make sure that everything is reading correctly. That the correct binary flags are raised at the right time (like the crank signal), that there's no stupid values in K or TIM. That you have not got mismatched firmware for the ECU and/or a wrong image loaded.
×
×
  • Create New...