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Reasons Why Immobiliser Unit Is Ticking

Cazeres

By Cazeres,
in Car Audio & Electrical

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Cazeres Rookie

Cazeres

Posted
Posted

Car has problem. Wont start no ignition. Narrowed it down to a Viper Immobiliser which has a constant ticking noise coming from unit. (Sounds like hazards) Up under dash and security blue light constantly flashing.

I have had battery tested twice and said its good. Volts meter says > 12.

Weird thing is it used to start occasionally (example when i cleaned terminals and leads) however would then not start if i left them connected for say more than 1 -2 hours. Tried this now but wont start at all.

I have checked/changed every fuse and relay from fusebox and box near battery.

Car wont jump start. The car will roll start.

I have never needed to use anything for the immobiliser before, however there is a little viper remote (which has never turned on since ive had car)

From what I have read possible reasons are: battery dead, remote battery flat? (like said never had to use it before), key problem? however car used to start off a cut $10 key as well. And internal relay problem in the unit.

If someone has any ideas, had a similar problems or any other suggestions feel free to throw them at me. Thanks

Cazeres Rookie

Cazeres

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Is this 'ticking' noise happening when your trying to crank it over and/or the light for the immobliser is flashing when you do this?

The ticking noise is constant whenever battery is connected. The light is also flashign whenever connected.

When the car was starting no light and no ticking.

erderr Contributor

erderr

Posted
Posted (edited)

How old is the battery thats currently in the car? Maybe it's not holding a strong charge anymore?

I had a similar issue to you after I got my alarm system + immobliser installed, it sounded almost exactly like your situation however mine only made a ticking noise and the light flickered when you tried to kick the engine over.

I spoke to the technican from the immobliser company as this was like 2 weeks after the install and they immediately diagnoised the fault as being a dead battery. Even though I could turn on my head lights and still get a fair bit of power through the system, with the immobliser installed I needed more power to crank the car over. I think from memory I was told I needed 14V/va.

FYI - We put a larger battery in my car as I still had the standard jap battery in the car and its cranked over fine ever since.

Edited by erderr
Carbon 34 Grand Master

Carbon 34

Posted
Posted

the problem is the alarm was reset and lost programming when you changed the battery. the siren sounds like it was shut off with the key on the top of it ???? and the alarm is actually on and going off , but the siren is turned off ??

the noises you hear are the light flasher relay , if its a on off sound, if its a buzzing fast sound the relay is on low voltage or fried. have it checked by viper dealer ?

a dead battery in the backup battery on the siren is possible as well? if it got deep cycled too much and is old they wont hold a decent charge.

and if you don't have the wires connected on the battery right (loose or corroded or even missing one ignition wire/bad grounds ) the viper is sensing the voltage flucuation as a possible attempt to over ride the alarm and disconnect the battery. normal for a decent alarm to do to protect the car from crims?

and if your car alarm was installed by a pro, it should be covered under a brain swap program for warranty for life of the orginal owner ?

12volts on the meter doesnt mean your battery has any current capacity to speak of, I've seen new batteries with 13volts, but very little current holding. wouldn't even turn over a starter. you need to have it load tested to see if it's still good ?

you have a dead battery/cell if it wont hold a charge , wet cell jap batterys are way to small for anything , ditch them asap

you never use the viper remote ??? so the car isn never alarm protected ??????? the remote takes a battery which is most likely dead, either a mini 12v or a 1.5 aaa depending on which model it is. cost a buck or two

always alarm your car, even in your driveway or petrol station , or it will get stolen !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Cazeres Rookie

Cazeres

Posted
  • Author
Posted

There in NO ALARM on the car.

I have never had to arm or disarm or unlock etc. I never had any of this installed was just as it is when I got the car.

Battery was bought new approx 12 months ago.

Car has been off road for nearly 6 months though so has gone flat a few times.

What you said about the light flasher relay sounds to be true.

If the battery is low, or faulty would that cause the relay to go off like it is?

I prefer not to have alarms on cars.

Carbon 34 Grand Master

Carbon 34

Posted
Posted
There in NO ALARM on the car.

I have never had to arm or disarm or unlock etc. I never had any of this installed was just as it is when I got the car.

Battery was bought new approx 12 months ago.

Car has been off road for nearly 6 months though so has gone flat a few times.

What you said about the light flasher relay sounds to be true.

If the battery is low, or faulty would that cause the relay to go off like it is?

I prefer not to have alarms on cars.

thought you said it had a viper immobolizer in it ? that is a car alarm, more or less!!!

really!!!! huge mistake if you don't run one. drives up the rates of insurance for everyone else when the car gets nicked and written off ?

a normal battery will die on "NO LOAD" just from sitting in a month or less sometimes

the viper has a light flasher relay built in, you should see parking lights flash, if not then I would suss the factory or viper relay/flasher has died. or is now bouncing due to low voltage , or the relay to "Immobolize" the car is stuck(they make the same noise when dead) .(outboard high current bosch relay normally) , about 20 bucks to change roughly.

depends on the model of viper , if its' built into the board or on the wire harness itself.

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