Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

iv polished my car by hand, and with oribital pads neither will remove the swirl marks i have in my car

iv gone through the polishing and waxing thread and nothing seems to work

you can see the scratches only at night time and it looks very very bad

any ideas guys

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/345777-swirl-scratches/
Share on other sites

Hey mate, there was a similar thread set up a few weeks ago...I suggest you see that for better details...

In brief, it seems you've applied too much wax and it's left grease residue on your finish that looks like oil or fat swirls, right?

Many will give you more methodical ways of removing this, but what I usually do is go and buy a small bottle of Eucalyptus oil from either Coles or Safey and with a clean and soft cloth, apply a few drops each time and clean it off slowly. It will work...and the good thing is it will leave your car smell nice and won't damage your paint job.

Good luck - it worked for me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/345777-swirl-scratches/#findComment-5569465
Share on other sites

The problem isn't just caused by too much polish, its as simple as not washing your car with a clean and suitable wash mit, usually in winter time or after its rained quite a lot mud/sand start covering the road and once it sticks to your car this can sometime cause problems to the unwary car enthusiast who just wants to keep his/her car clean.

When your wash mit gets clogged up there is nowhere for the grit to go and so it sits on the surface of your wash mit causing swirl marks ( depending on the motion your using), and in fact they are not "marks" but fine scratches.

To prevent this you should be using two buckets of water, one with detergent and another with just plain warm water (to rinse the mit in before it goes back into the detergent bucket), This stops debris staying on your mit and keeps the clean water clean.

I would not recommend sponges or anything with a flat surface if you are washing are car covered in grit, as this will practically turn into sand paper and just rub the grit around on the paint surface.

Some people will disagree with this, but i use a lambs wool mit, its great because the individual fibers are always randomly changing direction and are not in the same position when moving across the paint surface, so any grit picked up will be dispersed throughout the mit and not in direct contact with the paint all the time. Occasionally i use a thick "noodle" hand mit.. both create a high level off suds (lubrication + cleaning power) and trap debris inside the mit - this is why people will say this is not a good thing to use but if you rinse the mit thoroughly (a squeeze and a few seconds swirling around) 99.9% of potential scratching grit will be removed

Edited by R34 -_-
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/345777-swirl-scratches/#findComment-5569694
Share on other sites

just throwing this out there but clay blocking? by meguires.

ive used it on my skyline which does leave the surface nice and smooth (like glass)

i havent read the polishing and waxing thread butt if you have heard of g3 cutting compound, that might work for ya

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/345777-swirl-scratches/#findComment-5571921
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • They are, a good friend of mine bought one to replace his blow factory turbo, running a Toshi Tune reflash. Just use their supplied water/oil lines and you're good to go. At the time, they were like $900 delivered.
    • This is an option for 100% bolt on, the GCG high flow -  https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-upgrade-skyline-gtst-2iu-xtrgts-s1.html Also, I'm pretty sure hypergear does a high flow that is 100% bolt on, it just doesn't make as much power as their bigger high flows.  Even if you get a hypergear turbo that requires you to chance the intake piping, it is a really simple modification. It can be as simple as a piece of silicon hose and you pop a filter on the end. It doesn't have to be some crazy pie cut titanium work of art intake pipe.  If you have the ability to swap the turbo yourself, you would be able to sort the intake piping out. 
    • Just as a thought, if it's in neutral, thats your drive line disconnect, not the clutch. Clutch slip at the dyno with pedal fully out, is actually adding a second disconnect. So it's not a clutch issue if you're in neutral. Just a bit of friction dragging the output around while in the air.
    • The HG high flow is excellent, and costs about the $$ you're talking about. But it, and probably every other highflow, uses a diffeent core than the original turo, and the original Hitatchi core is quite long. So, I think it is inevitable that there is likely no such thing as a highflow that just "bolts on" with no other effort required. And the same is likely true for HG's outright replacement "bolt on" turbos (the ATR things). And the same is likely true for anything similar from elsewhere. I have no idea if the cheap Chinese/Taiwanese complete turbos from eBay/Temu/etc are as bolt on as they claim. I mean, they claim the bolt onto the NAs as well as the turbos, and we know that can't be "bolt on". But it wouldn't matter because I'm not buying a $169 4 psi turbo for anything other than a paddock basher.
    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
×
×
  • Create New...