Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi , my name is Chewy Im 21 and I own a RB25DET powered S13.

I ussualy work on my own car and when i come accross a dilema i search for a solution online ussualy, on car forums such as this...or nico,zilvia, nwnissans...ect

Im replacing my clutch/ flywheel. I replaced my oem clutch with a 6 puck clutch and replaced my flywheel with a lighter flywheel. everthing is torqued to specs and ready for my tranny to bolt rite up (so i think..)

Dilema#1; after i replaced those things (clutch/flywheel) i started reading online, everytime you replace your clutch/ flywheel , you should also replace your pilot bearing/bushing. now this is after everthing is already installed and torqued down. i relized that i didnt replace the pilot bearing nor the bushing. is that a problem ? should i be worried? am i ok to continue and bolt the tranny back on? Do you guys think i should unbolt everything, start from the begining and replace those things aswell?

Dilema #2; i noticed after i bolted up everthing that the clutch is in contact with the pressure plate/ flywheel ( like panckakes) everthing looks good but i went to the front of the car and turned the main crank pully and it turns the flywheel. i know the flywheel never stops rotating when the engine is on but when i turned it, it made a friction sound as if the clutch plate(6puck) was too close to it causing friction? it wasnt hard to turn nor was it a harsh sound . i simply need to know if thats normal and if the clutch is always in contact with the flywheel or is it suppose to be free flowing/ spinning without contact?

id like to know what you guys think. im doing this on my own and i wanna do this right the first time. and i dontknow if im taking things to serious so any information regaurding this topic would help.

thnx guys!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346687-worried-did-i-do-this-right/
Share on other sites

Dilema 1: Are you talking about the Spigot bush and the throwout bearing?. The Spigot bush is the one in the back of your crank where the input shaft for your gearbox sits when its mated to the engine and the throwout bearing is the one that activates your clutch. Sorry just not sure about the terms your using lol, but if that sounds right then...... Spigot bush is probably OK unless you can notice something Odd about it. The throwout bearing I would replace.... Usually clutch kits come with a new throwout bearing?

seen as you havent put the transmission on it wouldnt hurt to change both now while its not to much of an issue. But id Def change the throwout bearing.

Dilema 2: Thats a harder one without seeing and knowing more.... But I think that with the throwout bearing and clutch fork on it will spring the clutch plate out a little. But this one im not so sure about.....

the spigot bearing...i didnt know the exact name ...but i didnt replace it. I did replace the throw out bearing tho. last nite i finished everything up and installed my tranny and fired her up....seems to run great other than one problem.... the pedal seems to feel really mushy and weak. sometimes its pressed in and wont come back up and it wont engage in gear? i did bleed the clutch cilendar.....so i dont know whats goin on? i came accross many threads on diffrent forums and people with similar problems after changing there clutch/ flywheel. people sudjested to bleed the clutch more untill i felt the the diffrence in the pedal, even read that people have bled there clutch system for over an hour to get all the air bubbles out of the system and that worked for them.

but i did notice one thing when installing my new throw out bearing to the shaft of the tranny, i notice that when i pulle the lever all the way down on the side of the tranny the throw out bearing would get stuck on top almost disangaing from its path of travel. but would come back after i pressed it again manually with my hand....so i think my problem has something to do with my throw out bearing getting stuck when pedal if fully pressed to the floor? i did grease the bearing for smooother travel. and i also noticed that after i shut off the car for a while and took it for a drive around the block later that nite that it seemed normal and the problem had dissapeared as if it never happended. but at diffrent times it would do the same thing.....mushy pedal dropping to the floor when fully pressed ,not engaging in gear.... id had to try to put it in gear numerous time before the pedal actually workded.

should i continue to bleed the system and see if it works ? whats a solution for this annoying problem? or does my pedal need to be re adjusted all over again?

It does sound like you have air in your system. Get another person to bleed the clutch while you pump the clutch pedal, and keep doing it until it feels like a properly working hard clutch. Also did you adjust the clutch pedal already? Cause it will most likely need adjustment since your last clutch...

Edited by ichizora

k well this is wierd but i kinda like it hahah, since then ive been driving the car every morining and the issue is no longer relivent. it seemed to vanish. but i never adjusted the pedal...i wouldnt even know how? and i looked under there and where it seems like there would be a spring on the pedal, there isnt any spring......i looked at my brothers s13 and his clutch pedal doesnt have a spring eather. but clutch pedal travel and stiffness is good.

well i hope the clutch problem doesnt come back, but if it does ill try to bleed it again and if it does not work ill update the syntoms its performing.

other than that ,thanks for your replies.

.

theres no spring on any hydraulic clutch pedals that i've seen. the pedal gets pushed back up by the pressure plate.

your issues with a mushy pedal sounds like a hydraulic issue, as said, bleed it all properly and check for leaks if it appears again.

spigot bush should be fine aslong as its not flogged out

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...