Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Gtt Hesitation While Cruising

so_tred

By so_tred,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

so_tred Proficient

so_tred

Posted
Posted (edited)

Over the last few weeks gradually getting worse my R34 GTT has had an issue where I'll be slowly accelerating/cruising along and the car will hesitate for a second. It feels like when the TCS system kicks in and cuts the power but for a shorter time.

At first I was thinking it could be the CAS or something like that but last night whilst driving (with TCS turned OFF) it did it a few times and then the SLIP light came on and stayed on until I turned the car off & on again. I'm wondering if the TCS is for some reason malfunctioning.

(The car had splitfires installed approx 50,000km's ago as well as new platinum plugs)

Any ideas or similar situations?

Edited by so_tred
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/347290-r34-gtt-hesitation-while-cruising/
Share on other sites
rondofj Veteran

rondofj

Posted
Posted

Sorry for hijacking - this could help u if its not TCS related -

I had that infamous flat spot between 4700-5400 rpms, the car would also hesitate for a sec in fifth gear around 3rps when booting it, although my TCS doesnt work at all - no light on dash at all.

Changed to 0.8mm gapped NGK copper plugs, left my standard coils in. No change to above problem.

Then yesterday after reading a few bits on SAU, I reset my ECU - take off the battery terminals, stab the brake pedal a few times (brake light on/off) to drain off all the charge, then re-connect and go for a drive.

I'm just amazed to say after the ECU reset - the flatspot is almost completely GONE, not only that, the car feels so fresh, crisp and very quick to rev and GO!!

so_tred Proficient

so_tred

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Took it to a workshop yesterday who pulled the error code for the AFM.

It was cleaned etc, drove it this morning and I didn't really feel the hesitation but the SLIP light once again came on.

Is it a symptom of a dying AFM? It just seems like two very different systems?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      spot the stagea

      By Duncan · Posted

      roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...