Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

LOL at your title

i am still waiting for mine to be complied

Basically

Silver and White ones are a bit Cheaper than your favorite main stream colors (Bayside blue / pearl black, etc). then you got the limited colors like MP and Millennium Jade. they fetch pretty high prices in jap land :)

also try to buy a V-Spec or V-Spec 2, it will hold value and they are worth it for the rear diffuser alone where as the standard ones have slightly higher uglier stance than V-spec.

and try for 2000 and up model, the interior is better and re-sale value as well

i would say buy one with simple mods done (Exhaust,Wheels,etc) these are expensive to buy out right and you don't really add value to the car either, so it saves to get one with these done IMO

Im looking for one aswell....buget depends on car and mods...i was so close to owning bakes old car I could smell the paint. Bakes old car sold for low 50's so any thing in that class im keen to look n buy..if right car I have buget of hi 50's

ill be spending low to mid 50s if that helps though it does depend on car. This will get me a good vspec 2.

Or should i spend mid to high 40s on a 99 vspec in bsblue and spend the rest on mods? Is it better to have an earlier

blue car with money to spare or a later white or silver vspec 2?

decisions decisions :P

I'm happy with my 99 vspec bsb...just don't have the heart to mod it :) Not a fan of the MNP especially MNP III chamelion colours which went out of fashion pretty quick. Mill Jade is a Nur colour only.

can't recall all the differences between vspec 1/2 other than CF bonnet and different interior trim.

mid 50's will get you a reasonable vspec 2, and $70k+ for a Nur.

If you're just gonna track and mod it, then may as well get a bog vspec since you're just going to mod all the bits. If you plan to keep it in original condition then vs2 or nur if you can and keep it as is :)

I would rather a blue one but none around in vspec2. The 5 grand ill save buying a 99 or 2000 model will pay for

some rims so it will be looking how i want straight up. Is a vspec 2 really worth 5 grand considering there are only white

ones around?

Hi

I was thinking of putting up for sale my 34 GTR VSPEC. Titanium in colour, I was advised it is one of the rare colours.

Just under 67000 Klm, extra clean example. 99 model

Specs

Rear Factory carbon fibre diffuser and moulded front diffuser

Nismo Single Plate Clutch

Cat back Exhaust, Fujitsubo one of the highest spec Japanese exhaust for performance and sound

Current model Tein Coilovers

Rear Pineapples

Nismo Dash changed shortly after purchase.

Genuine Nissan Rain Shields

GTR Factory floor mats

Slotted Wiper slot Discs, Front and Rear

Ferodo Brake Pads, Front and Rear

Braded Brake lines, Front and Rear

Clifford Alarm systems, meant to be one of the best nearly 3K fitted

HKS ducted OIL cooler, very neat fitting similar to Nismo version

Nismo engine mounts

Well serviced with all fluids changed.

Gates timing belt kit, stronger belt includes bearing, tensioners and seals. Replaced about 2000klm ago

Price $49500 yell out if interested and I will get some photos

Regards Taylor

0408 188 777

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They are under bucket shims. Tomei provides a test shim kit and then any measurement of shim required. 
    • I always wondered how you were supposed to buy a set of 24 buckets and somehow magically have every single one of them yield exactly the desired clearance. I would have thought you'd need to assemble a cam with either 12 "sample" or "example" buckets of known top thickness (or a single such sample/example 12 times over!!) measure clearances at every valve, and then do the usual math to work out what the actual "shimness" of each bucket needed to be, before buying the required buckets to make up he thicknesses that you didn't have on hand.
    • I now seem to be limited in power due to my rev limit/hydraulic lifters in my built RB25. I'm looking into converting over to Tomei solid lifters. Question for anyone that has done the conversion. I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  I don't know where I got this idea, as so far I see no mention of this in any of the Tomei documentation. It just states I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
    • I couldn't agree more. I should have started from the get-go with a NEO or solid bucket conversion. I started looking into converting over to solid lifters yesterday. Now for some reason I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  But I see no mention of this on any of the Tomei documentation. It just states that I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
    • BRUH, one of the biggest mistakes of my life..... and i've had plenty ;[)
×
×
  • Create New...