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Hey Guys so i just picked up my N/A R32.

I'm looking at doing Oil and filter change, preferably everything, because there was no previous service histories,

Now just a few questions.

How common are the Rb20DE N/A R32 Manual ?

What kind of petrol do i fill it up with ?

Unleaded or Premium , does it say in the book ?

What Kind of Oil do i use ?

10-40w ?

Sorry Guys, Just need a breif explanation.

What are common problems to look out for ?

Does a GTST Gear box fit the NA Version ?

And what pipping sizing are the exhaust and will a GTST muffler fit on mine ?

cheers, sorry for all the noob questions.

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recently bought one myself man.

mine came with a 2.5'' exhaust system, feels like i'm loosing a little power at the lower end, i'd go with a 2.25'' system for optimal performance.

As for juice, I've been filling up with premium since i got it, havn't run it on normal unleaded before... so not too sure there.

Hey Guys so i just picked up my N/A R32.

I'm looking at doing Oil and filter change, preferably everything, because there was no previous service histories,

Now just a few questions.

How common are the Rb20DE N/A R32 Manual ?

What kind of petrol do i fill it up with ?

Unleaded or Premium , does it say in the book ?

What Kind of Oil do i use ?

10-40w ?

Sorry Guys, Just need a breif explanation.

What are common problems to look out for ?

Does a GTST Gear box fit the NA Version ?

And what pipping sizing are the exhaust and will a GTST muffler fit on mine ?

cheers, sorry for all the noob questions.

1: manual natro r32's are common. i'd say just as many manual versions as auto, if not more

2: 10w40 oil should be fine.

3: you could use 91 octane fuel, however my suggestion would be at least 94/95 octane (E10 should be fine for this), and 98 is preffered.

4: most common problem would be coil packs arcing out from old age (resulting in misfires)

5: gts-t gearbox will bolt to a natro. the gts-t box is a stronger box, but unless your box is stuffed i wouldn't waste the money.

6: gts-t exhaust should fit on without much hassle. as said above, if you go an aftermarket system i'd suggest a 2.25" system as said above.

I used to run my RB25DE on E10 95ron with advanced timing, never had any detonation (n matter how far I advanced the timing) used to run fine.

Would probably be OK on 91 with standard timing, but E10 95 is just as cheap and it's worth running the higher ignition timing for that little extra grunt. I actually felt the tiniest drop in performance switching to BP98 before adding a turbo, but have no figures to back it up (just felt less responsive).

Stupid question but how do you know your engine is pinging?

Thats not a stupid question haha, i was about to ask the same thing aswell.

Also, there is a fan that fan's the radiator , can i get rid of it ? and if so what do i replace it with ?

cheers, cause i see most tuned cars have slim line fans, but cause this fan is located on the block thought it worked diffrently, cheers.

You can hear pinging, like a quick flick of a tin can, or if it’s bad like a marble in a tin can... You can get knock warning devices, you can see your knock reading on SAFC and some after market management. The ecu also monitor's knock so you can feel it drop power/hesitate as well (providing all your sensors are connected and functioning).

The stock radiator/engine fan is called a clutch fan, in older age they tend to seize on a bit, make your car sound a bit like a falcon or hilux (windy revs) and steal a bit of power. You do need some sort of fan for your radiator, a good replacement is a temperature controlled electronic thermo fan, I have these on all my cars (inc twins behind a FMIC and a single 7” behind my R34 SMIC). They are noisy when they are on, but the motor is happier & quieter - plus I have lost 2 radiators and one water pump to seizing clutch fans in the past.

only bad pinging is audible. a lot of the time the car might be pinging and you won't hear it. on a stock ecu though, if the knock sensors are working properly it should retard the timing a bit to reduce pinging.

the stock clutch fans, when working properly, are the best option to use. they draw much more air than most thermo fans. there are plenty of high HP cars that still run them. people seem to think that thermos don't draw any power from the motor, but then add resistance to the alternator, which is run by the engine, so they still do drain a bit of power. if you do decide to run a thermo setup then my advice is to use the setup off a car that has them from factory, such as late model falcons, or fwd cars. these are often much more powerful than aftermarket ones, and the fact that they come with ready made shrouds you know that they are going to do the job well.

Hi guys, i got another question, when i rev slightly above 1k to 1.2ish , the car starts vibrating, is this normal ?

and i think the i might hear a pining sound, but apparenlty the previous owner said its a water pump sound ?

i dunno if its bad to drive it on this.

so whats the go to fix the pinging ?

Hey there mate, im in your position and i recently bought one aswell auto looking to convert it to manual. Automatic goes horrible and im not suprised. I couldnt seem to find many around non turbo let alone manual. i found one or two but they sold within a few days. Anyways goodluck with your questions as it may help me aswell, cheers

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