Atr43 G3

[Daza33]

I just installed mine on Friday night. I had to modify the actuator mount to make it fit without tapping the tower in. Got a die grinder and elongated the holes on the actuator bracket and then just slid it up until it cleared the strut tower.

Also for the coolant line on the body side of the turbo I took it off the block and attached it to the turbo then bent it into position on the block end, makes the job so much easier. Took approx 5min to get the water lines on, just make sure you undo the pipe clamps holding them to the block like Stao said.

[Hanaldo]

Just quietly, these turbos are a HELL of a lot easier to get on and off if you spend a bit of extra cash and make up some braided water lines for them. I can get mine off in well under an hour these days, without the helping hands from mates. I spent about $60-$70 on the Speedflow fittings and braided line that I needed and put them together myself (anyone installing a turbo can put together braided line).

Food for thought.

[jentech72]

i have a atr43ss2 on my r33 sedan and yes lots easyer with braided lines

[MatthewT85]

Gonna bump this cause I think it's relevant
So I've been installing my ss2 and have an issue with the water lines.
The one on the engine side. I assume is feed is touching a bolt on the turbo. Will this be an issue? Vibrations etc.
The feed on the body side looks like it doesn't reach AT all. I'm thinking I'll just get a braided line made up cause it'll be easy to get too. Or I just realised above has said to attach to turbo first.
So my question really is about the one on the engine side. Or how do I go about.connecting a braided line to it being that the line runs to the back of the block.

Edited December 11, 2015 by MatthewT85

[Gcjosh]

Undo the bolts holding the hot side and spin it a little?

[kingtube69]

I just finished installing my ATR45 which is bigger than the SS2 had to do the following

Unbolt brackets from the engine side holding lines to the block

Undo water line off the side of the block

Bolt the water line to the turbo

Bend/Stretch the water line a bit to get it to get back to the block

After doing the above its fine, have a few mm of room between the turbo and the line but it fits none the less.

Tao can confirm but that's pretty much what he told me to do and it worked

[MatthewT85]

hmmm ill have to look at it again tomorrow and try that line again,

i guess ill have to look at the other one and see if theres a way to get it away from the bolt too

[Gcjosh]

hmmm ill have to look at it again tomorrow and try that line again,

i guess ill have to look at the other one and see if theres a way to get it away from the bolt too

If the exhaust and inlet housings are in the correct positions just loosen the 13-14mm? Bolts around the housings and then you will be able to rotate the center enough to clear the bolt [emoji106]

[MatthewT85]

If the exhaust and inlet housings are in the correct positions just loosen the 13-14mm? Bolts around the housings and then you will be able to rotate the center enough to clear the bolt [emoji106]

ok i think i get what you mean,

take the turbo out and loosen bolts on both sides, intake and exhaust, and that will allow me to rotate the core on its own but the actuator will keep the two sides in the correct positions?

I guess ill rotate that side pictured up about 10mm and try again, that does sound like it will help with the other side as the line sits ALOT lower and from mem the side i could connect was higher.

Currently its all set at 12-3-6-9, if you look at it like a clock

I guess its just something ill have to try.

[Gcjosh]

Easiest way to do it is take it out, loosen all bolts , put it back in, rotate housings and core until you find a happy medium, nip up a few on each side, take out, tighten all then bam! Your done [emoji41]