Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just installed mine on Friday night. I had to modify the actuator mount to make it fit without tapping the tower in. Got a die grinder and elongated the holes on the actuator bracket and then just slid it up until it cleared the strut tower.

Also for the coolant line on the body side of the turbo I took it off the block and attached it to the turbo then bent it into position on the block end, makes the job so much easier. Took approx 5min to get the water lines on, just make sure you undo the pipe clamps holding them to the block like Stao said.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348097-atr43-g3/page/2/#findComment-6670104
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Just quietly, these turbos are a HELL of a lot easier to get on and off if you spend a bit of extra cash and make up some braided water lines for them. I can get mine off in well under an hour these days, without the helping hands from mates. I spent about $60-$70 on the Speedflow fittings and braided line that I needed and put them together myself (anyone installing a turbo can put together braided line).

Food for thought.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348097-atr43-g3/page/2/#findComment-6681857
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...
  • 1 year later...

Gonna bump this cause I think it's relevant
So I've been installing my ss2 and have an issue with the water lines.
The one on the engine side. I assume is feed is touching a bolt on the turbo. Will this be an issue? Vibrations etc.
The feed on the body side looks like it doesn't reach AT all. I'm thinking I'll just get a braided line made up cause it'll be easy to get too. Or I just realised above has said to attach to turbo first.
So my question really is about the one on the engine side. Or how do I go about.connecting a braided line to it being that the line runs to the back of the block.

20151211_172004_zpsztvqb0en.jpg

Edited by MatthewT85
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348097-atr43-g3/page/2/#findComment-7651875
Share on other sites

I just finished installing my ATR45 which is bigger than the SS2 had to do the following

Unbolt brackets from the engine side holding lines to the block

Undo water line off the side of the block

Bolt the water line to the turbo

Bend/Stretch the water line a bit to get it to get back to the block

After doing the above its fine, have a few mm of room between the turbo and the line but it fits none the less.

Tao can confirm but that's pretty much what he told me to do and it worked

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348097-atr43-g3/page/2/#findComment-7651906
Share on other sites

hmmm ill have to look at it again tomorrow and try that line again,

i guess ill have to look at the other one and see if theres a way to get it away from the bolt too

If the exhaust and inlet housings are in the correct positions just loosen the 13-14mm? Bolts around the housings and then you will be able to rotate the center enough to clear the bolt [emoji106]

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348097-atr43-g3/page/2/#findComment-7651924
Share on other sites

If the exhaust and inlet housings are in the correct positions just loosen the 13-14mm? Bolts around the housings and then you will be able to rotate the center enough to clear the bolt [emoji106]

ok i think i get what you mean,

take the turbo out and loosen bolts on both sides, intake and exhaust, and that will allow me to rotate the core on its own but the actuator will keep the two sides in the correct positions?

I guess ill rotate that side pictured up about 10mm and try again, that does sound like it will help with the other side as the line sits ALOT lower and from mem the side i could connect was higher.

Currently its all set at 12-3-6-9, if you look at it like a clock

I guess its just something ill have to try.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348097-atr43-g3/page/2/#findComment-7651955
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...