Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

Looking for some advice.

I have an R33 GTS25T with:

Pod filter

Intercooler

3 inch turbo back exhaust

Walbro fuel pump (not a fake)

550cc injectors

Oil catch can

HKS GT-RS Turbo

Power FC

Greddy profec bspec 2

Currently it makes 338rwhp on ~15psi. No real blowby to speak of, pretty healthy motor on 97xxx kms.

Basically, I was considering getting a retune and upping the boost to around 18psi. Anyone know what sort of gains I could expect, or should I not bother because I am already making the power most people make out of this turbo anyway? (Boost being a measure of resistance to flow etc etc)

I have also heard claims that the standard exhaust manifold is marginal even at the power I am currently making, is there any truth to this?

Cheers :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349514-gt-rs-more-boost/
Share on other sites

Used to run 20-21psi all day every day for over a year with no dramas (currently running low boost until I tune it for high boost again).

Chuck it on a dyno and see if there is gains to be had. If the gains are marginal than turn it back down.

Mine used to make a lot more power on 18+psi than 14psi, but every car is different.

1. unless you built the motor or know the person that did then it's not on 97,000 (probably more like 197,000)

2. do it

You know this how? :P

Used to run 20-21psi all day every day for over a year with no dramas (currently running low boost until I tune it for high boost again).

Chuck it on a dyno and see if there is gains to be had. If the gains are marginal than turn it back down.

Mine used to make a lot more power on 18+psi than 14psi, but every car is different.

Thanks mate, can you remember any numbers, like the difference between 14 and 18? Plus, from the all important seat of the pants dyno, was it worth it?

You know this how? :P

Thanks mate, can you remember any numbers, like the difference between 14 and 18? Plus, from the all important seat of the pants dyno, was it worth it?

all these people with "80,000" skylines make me lol

as phil said, throw it on the rollers and tune it up until the point of diminishing return

230-235rwkw on 14psi and 255rwkw on 18-20psi prior to any head work.

Once the headwork was done the most I saw was 263rwkw on the same dyno on 19-20psi.

Always had the boost start dropping off towards redline though. My tuner didn't really know how to tune the boost controller so my boost curve was fairly average.

At the moment I have retuned it on low boost and the car feels slow as hell, so yeah definetely high boost all the way lol.

However remember every single dyno is different. I've seen cars with dyno sheets saying 350rwkw and then they run it on a different dyno and it will be 310rwkw. It really does vary so I try not to use other peoples dyno sheets to much other than a guide, and just use the same dyno every time you do mods to see if there is an increase on that particular dyno.

230-235rwkw on 14psi and 255rwkw on 18-20psi prior to any head work.

Once the headwork was done the most I saw was 263rwkw on the same dyno on 19-20psi.

Always had the boost start dropping off towards redline though. My tuner didn't really know how to tune the boost controller so my boost curve was fairly average.

At the moment I have retuned it on low boost and the car feels slow as hell, so yeah definetely high boost all the way lol.

However remember every single dyno is different. I've seen cars with dyno sheets saying 350rwkw and then they run it on a different dyno and it will be 310rwkw. It really does vary so I try not to use other peoples dyno sheets to much other than a guide, and just use the same dyno every time you do mods to see if there is an increase on that particular dyno.

Yeah, I was more interested in the hp gain vs boost added, that helps!

Are you running a standard exhaust manifold?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...