Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

I have a V35 sedan 250 GT

and I just want to lower my car if possible, I tried Repco and Pedders, but they dont even know what V35 is.

I was wondering if there is a car which has identical springs as V35?

And I DONT want to do dodgy stuff how people cut springs n stuff.

In the future I will order Coilover form Japan, but for now, I need Lowerd springs.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351437-how-to-lower-v35-sedan/
Share on other sites

yeap + 1 on the 350Z springs it loweres it about 1 inch to 1.5 . i got mine very cheap from a local mechanic cus he put coilovers for one of his customers and the guy didnt want to keep his old shocks and springs so i gave the mechanic $50 and got me a set of prety decent springs.

and best thing about that no decrease in ride comfort or scrape on speed bumbps

  • Like 1

350z springs are not the SAME as V35 sedan otherwise there would be no point in recommending them to you. They are however compatible and are slightly shorter than V35 springs hence lowering your car by approx 1inch.

Check my topics....I have the complete set of springs and shocks from a 350z in my V35 sedan. A few other members have done the same with good results.

I have v35 gt-8 and just been lowered .. King Springs sent me a wrong ones ( too low ) then they have to make new sets just for my car .. I suggest you contact them and have to ask for the v35 sedan ... the new springs set the car nicely and fitted 17x8,5 and 17x9.5

Ask for Kris Tarrant as he is the person that took my order

I have a set of t2000 titanium springs under my v35, its too low. I need a set of 350 springs, any ideas?

Same springs as I had on my 300GT before the change to Z springs. Low is an understatement.

Now just need to sort some camber issues. :(

Keep an eye on all Nissan forums for Z spring.

  • 1 month later...

from what i read on teh g35driver forum, my understanding was you need to use the 350 sturts/shocks along with the springs.. not just the springs with the 35 struts/shock.. due to travel lengths and blowing the ass out of the 35 shocks over time from being to low.

Edited by GeNOS

has anyone played with shock spring combos? im wondering if the 350z setup stiffness is due to spring or shock..... am considering putting the Z springs with the V shocks to see if it loses a bit of its rigidity. as it is, the Z shocks and springs compress less than an inch max under load

anyone have some springs they want to sell?

has anyone played with shock spring combos? im wondering if the 350z setup stiffness is due to spring or shock..... am considering putting the Z springs with the V shocks to see if it loses a bit of its rigidity. as it is, the Z shocks and springs compress less than an inch max under load

see my first post above

see my first post above

i really want to know if people have had personal experience rather than word of mouth.....

plenty of people say bmws are too expensive to own and fix, but i proved they were cheaper than holdens with a bit of know how

i really want to know if people have had personal experience rather than word of mouth.....

plenty of people say bmws are too expensive to own and fix, but i proved they were cheaper than holdens with a bit of know how

From personal & current experience I have to disagree with your statement saying the 350z shock and spring combo is like riding on bumpstops.

I have driven on stock suspension, aftermarket coilovers and have fitted the 350z shock and spring combo to both my V35 sedans 300GT and 350GT.

The 350z combo rates the best amongst all the above in terms of balancing comfort and handling. Yes they are a bit firmer than factory suspension but overall still gives you similar ride quality without sacrificing much in terms of comfort. There is also the added bonus of increased handling and reducing body roll.

My wife drives the V now taking two kids in the backseat and she has never complained once about the suspension qualities, infact I doubt she even noticed when I switched from factory to Z suspension :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...