Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It may not be a turbo seal you have blown...

I had white smoke after lift off - when accelerating after a decel in gear/going down a hill etc... I thought the same thing and sent off the turbo to get rebuilt... It didn't fix the problem.

It turned out to be broken ring lands on three pistons... The RB25 stock pistons are pretty weak. Hopefully your 20 doesn't have the same issue.

Edited by Ryno
  • 3 months later...

Ok time for a update,

Well i ran it at the last drift meet, with a missfure in CYL no 6 (replaced the plug before the event, but the coil had gone), I also had a crack in the dump pipe. the night was going ok, was pussing a bit harder then last time (3rd gear apx $130km/h) in to turn 5. I spun once and took out my front bar and the indicator dented my guard. however this was not as bad as what happend on turn 7. Started the slide at apx 135km/h and mid curner i started to spin. i jumped on the break but i was already on the grass and slid straight in to a plastic water barrier (empty). I started a grass fire, and engine fire.

What had happend, one of my catch can lines had poped off, and the vaoper condensed back on the wheels.

The pictures show the damage. What you cant see is the B piller was pulled in 10mm or so, and had i not had the floor brace could have been worse.

The car is now a dedicated drift pig, 33LCA are now on. turbo has new gaskets.

  • 2 months later...

Here are the pics for the above post,

After the crash i also did the following.

Striped the interior

New seat.

reverted back to stock pcv set up.

new coil packs

new plugs

My next event was the bursons auto parts state of origin drift. Did well on this weekend didn't make the top 32 due to the handbrake going loose and not locking up properly. but still had a awesome weekend.

Next on the list,

New hand brake cables.

New top hats for the front coil overs

garage 7 lock kit.

oil cooler,

catch can set up.

.

post-32868-0-17704200-1355053326_thumb.jpg

post-32868-0-38067600-1355053332_thumb.jpg

post-32868-0-24229600-1355053435_thumb.jpg

post-32868-0-28798200-1355053446_thumb.jpg

post-32868-0-35089000-1355053455_thumb.jpg

And another one bites the dust, and another one bites the dust hey hey. A very clean car for it's age, not now though.........no, not now. And a four door to. 10 years from now it would have been worth a bit. Oh well, makes mine more collectable.

  • 2 months later...

Up date time:

Had a 3 month brake from the car after the last practice. On the last meet I ended up with no hand brake and striped 3 nuts, I was also selecting 5th instead of 3rd alot due to the bush wearing out.

so brought the following:

Gktech exstended nuts and sutds.

Gktech soild gear leaver bush

Gktech magnetic sump plug

Bride low max drivers seat

new hand brake cables (2nd hand ones)

bursons eng oil 15w50

The Gktech studs are a good pece of gear. front where east to fit with little fuss. The rears on the other hand are a PITA. It requires the removal of the hub which is exsplained below. The magnetic sump plug had no issues, but would be nice if a tool was included has i had to imporive to fit it as it takes a allen key and not a socket.

I have yet to test the new gear lever bush so will mention that when i do.

Rear hub removal R32 GTS-T.

Remove caliper and disc.

Remove all hand brake components.

remove split pin and locking peace.

the nut is a 36mm

the bolts for the drive shaf are 15mm

then there are 4 19mm bolts holding the hub on.

  • 9 months later...

update,

Well its been a while, so in summry.

2 blown turbos

1 blown engine

new fixed back seat

gktech steering wheel

45v4 turbo

14psi actuator

17x8 plus 30 drift tech rims swapped out for the gtr rims

TOG coilovers to replace worn front ones

TOG oil cooler kit

new signage by driven designs

bump stop corrected tie rods

hydro hand brake

I featured in a article in NT NEWS, drift life magazine, where one of my videos was also used.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kFDsltSDCms my 2013 state of origin video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ggO7N9HShe4 good video on NT state of origin

http://www.ntnews.com.au/article/2013/07/26/323287_ntsport.html NT news article.

http://p8tzz.exclusiverewards.karoakedownload.com/?sov=63645201&hid=hrrhlhljhlhnl&id=XNSX.life.com drift life article. drifting in darwin.

http://driftlife.com.au/2013/07/18/drift-state-of-origin-nt-style/ drift life article. drift state of origin.

BIGGEST ONE, new engine will be a RB30ET. more to come.

post-32868-0-11371800-1384520521_thumb.jpg

post-32868-0-28414600-1384520539_thumb.jpg

post-32868-0-65098300-1384520565_thumb.jpg

post-32868-0-45112400-1384520582_thumb.jpg

post-32868-0-06237400-1384520600_thumb.jpg

post-32868-0-44056600-1384520621_thumb.jpg

post-32868-0-88581300-1384520645_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

I have only fitted the sandwich plate at this point in time on the 30. As I am still in the process of swapping engines. But as you can see by the pics, it comes with every thing you need. Quality appearspost-32868-13856771846516_thumb.jpg to be really good. Still have to test it on the track first.

Cheers. One thing to note, the nut that holds the sandwich plate on to the block is about .5 mil to big for the OEM fitting on the block. It is supplied with the correct one but I have not fitted it. I'm going to use thread lock on it.

  • 7 months later...

So I havnt up dated in a while but this is where im at.

RB30ET is in and running. well just. it looks like its got a f**ked head gasket or rings.

So what have I used.

Rb30E inc full loom and ECU.

T3/t4 turbo (10psi)

VLT exhaust manifold.

15mm spacer between turbo and mani as they fouled, I used HDJ100 (land cruiser) studs and nuts on the manifold as I fould these to be the lenth I needed to fit the spacer plate.

braided oil feed line, custom oil drain line.

GTR 444cc injectors on RB30 fuel rail.

Sard fuel pressure reg. (as both my factory ones I had were sized)

forward facing plenum, as the factory one fouled the bonnet, and I alslo wanted to run the strut brace. This is a unique one I found of gumtree. As the previous owner fitted two RB30 TB.

Had to mod my blits FMIC as it was a return flow, and do all custom piping. I used what I had lying around.

R32 AFM (will be changing to z32) as I have been informed it will max out at 180 rwkw, and I excpect to see 200-220rwkw.

R32 GTST mounts with nismo insulators.

RB20 GTST clutch and fly wheel.

RB20 GTST gear box.

Nistune ECU

Just need to get it tuned.

post-32868-0-45335000-1405686117_thumb.jpg

post-32868-0-99907800-1405686126_thumb.jpg

post-32868-0-77615500-1405686136_thumb.jpg

post-32868-0-60333200-1405686146_thumb.jpg

post-32868-0-53443800-1405686156_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
×
×
  • Create New...