Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You have a sensor thats usually located in the air ducts so the a/c doesn't freeze itself. Their is also a pressure switch out front near the radiator (looks like a cylinder with two wires going to it) But I havent pulled my line apart yet to find out. This is where a service manual would come in handy.

the sensor is displaying on the climate control (self diagnostic) that it is 5 degrees.. thus when i turn a/c on.... it turns itself off... cause it thinks it is 5 degrees.. obviously 2 cold for the a/c....

Sumo u mentioned it could be in the air ducts..... could this be possible?

Anyone else know the exact location of this sensor?

wados: it wouldn't be the sun sensor, that just gives a bit of an "adjuster" to the basic climate algorithm, based on the outside light levels

Refrigerant sensor will be down under the whole dash near the aircon box. There are a few sensors down there in the ductwork from what I remember (and if its similar setup to an R33). You will have to remove it to get to it (few hour job). Replacing the sensor itself should be an easy job, just unplug old, and in with new. Its just getting to it.

ahhh..here we go.. I think this looks like it.. Its going into the aircon box there so I assume that is what its doing!

Now that I think about it, it could also be that temp resistor that goes from the climate control to just behind your front dash. I know on the 33 at least, its attached to a small hose, that goes to a very small vent just near the steering wheel and below left of the speedo, etc. Not sure about the R32 though, I assume it would have a similar setup.

hey guess what everybody - I hope you've all realised TODAY IS A LEAP DAY!!

so enjoy this one day every 4 years occasion! and party likes it 2000 all over again! and couldn't be a better day for it up here either :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
×
×
  • Create New...