Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just bought a 94' R33 GTST and im over the moon, it is as if it rolled out of Nssan in Japan just 5 mins ago, It is as stock as a rock which is really quite rare.

So I need some reccomendations on what I should do to it. Any opinons?

The First thing that needs to go is that ugly spolier on the 93-94 models, is anybody selling a 2nd hand spolier from a later R33?

Yep. Exhaust, pod (with air-partition)/panel replacement, bleed valve (or EBC). Decent wheels are a must-have; more traction and some ever-important style. Springs (~$400)go with the wheels (to remove that 'dune-buggy' effect of putting larger wheels on stock suspension), though some new shocks (~$1000) would go down well if you have the money.

All in all, it depends on how much money you have. Take the car for a dyno run to see if anything is not right.

bleed valve is just a cheap way of running more boost. They are just basically a glorified T piece that you can adjust the boost. So your car runs 7psi stock and bump it upto 10psi to get more power. I wouldnt up the boost until the pod and exhaust is done first

bleed valve is just a cheap way of running more boost. They are just basically a glorified T piece that you can adjust the boost. So your car runs 7psi stock and bump it upto 10psi to get more power.

Is that how a boost controllers work? by connecting to an automatic bleed valve. so you change the boost while driving?

Mechanical boost controllers can come in single-stage or two-stage 'packages' (for lack of a better word).

With the single-stage ones, you set the boost (via the knob on top), and that's all there is to it. The two-stage ones let you set have a low-boost setting, and a high-boost setting; you can flick between them using an in-car switch.

PUT A PHAT BODY KIT ON IT 18" CHROMES, LOTSA NEONS, STICKERS, AND BIG MASS DOOF DOOF. NO BODY WILL WANNA MESS WIT YA. :wassup:

Nah u came to the right place these boyz know there shit. as said EXH is a must and make sure its turbo back soooo many ppl forget about it when they buy there cars off us it cost shit all to get but opens the Exh right up for you. Reset your computer as well so it learns the way you drive.

Stock R33's are not rare these days as all the imports have to be stock. I would say this has had a good effect on the value of already modded examples in the country.

You're best bet would be to upgrade the exhaust first. Replace the dump and front pipe with a 3" combined front/dump pipe, replace the catalytic convertor with a 3" hiflow item, replace the cat-back system with something free flowing and at least 3" and get yourself a good muffler which will flow well while not being too loud.

Depending on the money you have the options you have with the exhaust vary. You could get a HPC coated split dump pipe (seperating the wastegate from the exhaust outlet at the turbo to reduce turbulence).

After the exhaust you should either use a performance panel filter in the stock airbox, buy an aftermarket airbox and panel (ARC for example) or build/buy a partition for a pod filter.

You should not just stick a pod filter in the engine bay. This will decrease performance on the street.

Ask yourself - "How serious am I going to get about performance?" - don't bother buying cheap products if you are only going to want to replace them later. I think that's common sense. An electronic boost controller would be my pick. But certainly, exhaust first. I believe that engine management is also a good thing to get in the car asap - but that all comes down to budget.

Yeah my thoughts exactly. I skipped the bleed valve thing completely and went straight to the Apexi PowerFC full ECU replacement with boost control kit.

Saved the money i wouldve spent on bleed valves, boost controllers, electronic boost controllers, SAFC's or other piggyback systems, plus the performance is better than you can get with piggybacks.

i'd also be saying that the most intelegent thing you can do for your car is change the fluid ASAP! my mate found water in his coolent tank after he got it back from complicance, you want that kind of crap out of there...........

Set some goals:

1) What power level am I seeking?

2) What kind of a budget am I on?

3) How long do I envisage keeping this car for?

4) Street, Drag, Sprint/Motorkhana/Road Rallies, Circuit? All of the above?

5) How do I want my car to look? Clean 'tricked'? Show car? Over-the-top?

6) What kind of handling mods will I need? New shocks and springs, or coilovers and the lot?

Once you've got what you want to do in mind, you can begin modifying your car 'properly'.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...