Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

looks like I voted in the "built engine failure" too early. althou this looks to be tune or fuel or something? only just click over 10k, recent tune to 700awhp HKS 2.8L CP pistons, TO4Z

long story short, noticed engine using oil, even after changing to a thinker oil,

#6 plug oily , #1 white ?? got compression and leakdown tests

compression (psi) 135, 135, 130, 130, 135, 130

Leakdown (%) 8, 6, 5, 5, 6, 10,

also had a look with the scope, can see #6 has some pitting damage from pinging? (detonation? ) the other pistons look ok ( from the top), so looks like at least 1 new piston. not sure whats going on with #1 ? in the leakdown.

anyway this was supposed to be a short story. If I was to pull the motor out, take the head off etc and just drop off the bottom end, to be stripped and rebuilt with new pistons ( lets just say we go for 6 new pistons, not sure what else would need replacing? bearings etc? ) the main Question from all this is, what is a reasonable price to pay for this job ??? assuming everything else is still serviceable .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/351924-need-new-pistons-etc/
Share on other sites

Totally depends on what else you find when it gets pulled apart.

There might be a bit more than just piston dmg due to the detonation.

It could be 2.5k, it could be 4k

yeah i know, can't really say until it comes apart, just chasing ball parks, got a bit of a shock when the first price I got for the above job was $6500+ and that was if they didn't find anything else, ( thats a perth price )

looks like I voted in the "built engine failure" too early. althou this looks to be tune or fuel or something? only just click over 10k, recent tune to 700awhp HKS 2.8L CP pistons, TO4Z

long story short, noticed engine using oil, even after changing to a thinker oil,

#6 plug oily , #1 white ?? got compression and leakdown tests

compression (psi) 135, 135, 130, 130, 135, 130

Leakdown (%) 8, 6, 5, 5, 6, 10,

also had a look with the scope, can see #6 has some pitting damage from pinging? (detonation? ) the other pistons look ok ( from the top), so looks like at least 1 new piston. not sure whats going on with #1 ? in the leakdown.

anyway this was supposed to be a short story. If I was to pull the motor out, take the head off etc and just drop off the bottom end, to be stripped and rebuilt with new pistons ( lets just say we go for 6 new pistons, not sure what else would need replacing? bearings etc? ) the main Question from all this is, what is a reasonable price to pay for this job ??? assuming everything else is still serviceable .

You want to do bearings as well if you are pulling the pistons out due to detonation damage, no doubt they will be roughed up slightly as well.

Also if you can pull the motor out yourself and disassemble it as needed, get someone who knows what they are doing to diagnose the failures/damaged bits then buy the parts yourself and just pay a builder to put it back together you will save a fair bit.

Edited by Rolls

You want to do bearings as well if you are pulling the pistons out due to detonation damage, no doubt they will be roughed up slightly as well.

Also if you can pull the motor out yourself and disassemble it as needed, get someone who knows what they are doing to diagnose the failures/damaged bits then buy the parts yourself and just pay a builder to put it back together you will save a fair bit.

cheers, thats what I'll probably end up doing, try and save some cash and maybe learn a thing or two along the way..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
    • Agreed, and in particular the earth strap that should go from the subframe to the chassis but it often broken or left off. There is a section in the R32 workshop manual you can follow for troubleshooting if you don't see anything suspicious, and depending where you are (there is no location on your user profile) you should be able to get your hands on a second hand replacement unit still if needed
    • Yeah they mention as a R34 for 2.5 Turbo...but then again thos "small" were also for R34 by that different site. But i look into it and that 310mm EBC is for R34 GTT. And by those you linked the specs are the same 🙂    EDIT: I found these on one site here: DBA 4000 series T3 DBA42304S They are 310mm...and it says are for R34GTT...are there good? EDIT2: ok they have pads too.  What "color" should i get for street use? I dont want/need some noisy ones...(and if they are not that dusty that is good too)
    • Yeah, shame. Maybe  driver's carpet is available 🙏. I am waiting for both amayama and nangun to confirm.
×
×
  • Create New...