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Stalling When The A/c Is On

BB81DO

By BB81DO,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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BB81DO Proficient

BB81DO

Posted
Posted

hey all

just wondering if anyone can help me

i have a slight issue with the 33

because of the heat today i had the a/c running in the car and when i was in car park and my 33 stalled

after a while it started to overheat ( that was after 3hrs of running)

i am mainly worried about it stalling when i am in car parks ...........

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/352473-stalling-when-the-ac-is-on/
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The Mafia Grand Master

The Mafia

Posted
Posted

yeap, so you think.

I often wonder how many retards will ever learn that a ATMO BOV is a BIG f**kING AIR LEAK in your intake system.

When the car is under a little bit of load with the AC on, it pulls more vacuum, pulls the BOV open, leaks air, and you run as rich as f**k.

You're wondering why you smell fuel. Its the BOV.

There is a reason why they plumb back the factory Mitsubishi BOV. because it has a permanent leak, and the AFM measures this air and expects it to go into the engine. Not out your BOV.

Putting on that BOV would have done absolutely nothing for you, except made you car sound like a wanker, stall, and over fuel. NExt time your coasting to a set of lights at about 3k. Push the clutch in. I bet the taco sinks like a stone and it stalls.

I can guarantee that if you install the factory one back on, your problems will go away. Maybe after you change your already f**ked spark plugs.

Can mods start banning anyone that posts "My car runs like shit, it has a ATMO BOV" threads please.. Sick of the absolute stupidity I read.

SargeRX8 Grand Master

SargeRX8

Posted
Posted (edited)

My car runs poorly with AC and I run the standard BOV. To say the least though, it doesn't stall but its definitely harder to move off the lights than with the AC off. Ive got new plugs too. I think my AAC might be dirty...

And damn these air cons are shit in 39+ weather lol.

Edited by SargeRX8
BB81DO Proficient

BB81DO

Posted
  • Author
Posted

it was also doing it with the factory BOV but not as bad ........

1. i changed the before putty road crusie

2. did was you said it would go off becasue of the GATE which is plumbed back into the exhaust !!!!

it was a simple question , the bov is only there as a stop becasue its not even hooked up ..... thats right no vacuum line to the BOV

jrm Veteran

jrm

Posted
Posted

it was also doing it with the factory BOV but not as bad ........

1. i changed the before putty road crusie

2. did was you said it would go off becasue of the GATE which is plumbed back into the exhaust !!!!

it was a simple question , the bov is only there as a stop becasue its not even hooked up ..... thats right no vacuum line to the BOV

You can't just stop a BoV by not hooking it up. It's held closed by the pressure of the vacuum line - without that, all you have is the very weak spring, which will open up very easily.

No wonder it's running terribly... Please put it back the way it was with a vent-back, hooked up with a vacuum line.

75coupe Grand Master

75coupe

Posted
Posted

maybe we should ask what the brand and model of the atmo BOV he is using, cause I run a HKS ssqv and have none of these issues, and before you start bagging, the tuner chose to use it over the std one I supplied both were supplied to him...

I have no stalling issues with or without AC on... 21psi of boost @ 290rwkw...

the tuner did say the BOV was very surprising to him and that it held closed very well and didnt leak like most others do, that is why he used it.

maybe only some atmo bovs have given them all a bad name in some regards, not all but some problem areas...

The Mafia Grand Master

The Mafia

Posted
Posted

I don't really care what anyone says - The facts are, if you use a ATMO BOV in a Air flow meter application, then its WRONG.

The BOV will be so tight its not doing its job at all, so they are useless. Nissan made them plumb back for a reason. GTRs even.

So don't try and justify an ATMO BOV. It is wrong in airflow metered induction systems.

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