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When my GTR arrives here in October I'm going to go through with some fairly massive modifications :D

I'm seriously considering the HKS GT3037S turbo's to be the main part of this upgrade...

I haven't had a chance to talk this over with my mechanic yet, but some things I am interested in is what else would I need to change to be able to withstand the pressure these might turbo's put out...

I know the thing's that I don't need to change in my r32 gtr are the Fuel rail, Plenum, Throttle bodies, camshafts/gears, pistons and headgaskets...

If anyone can help me in listing some NECESSARY parts I would need to purchase to help accomodate these turbos, I would appreciate it.

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You can run those turbos on a standard motor. At the bare minimum you would need to sort out the fuel delivery system and injection computer.

If you wanted to use that setup to any degree of efficiency, you need:

a) a Very Expensive Gearbox (VEG)

B) rods for the revs for the high powerband that operates in

c) a nice clutch to go with the VEG, normally a chev or hollinger spline depending which way you go

d) a massive fuel system. We're taking three pumps if you go the Bosche route, or one big Barry Grant or Aeromotive with a fuel cell.

e) massive injectors

f) massive intercooler

g) headwork, headwork and more headwork

h) suspension mods: from either a traction or a safety perspective

i) brakes to slow this sucker down

j) uber sticky tyres, like the $500 each Dunlop R's, Nittos, BFG Drags

k) 1.5 or 2 way diffs would be a benefit

l) probably going to snap a driveshaft or two by now, get some spares

Now you can probably run the setup to 900-1000hp, you're going to want to unleash it a bit. Realising that you can't do squat on public roads, you take it to a track. To be kicked off because you don't have any safety gear...

Edit: that doesn't take into account alot of "minor" things, like new plenum, type of injection computer, ignition system, ETC/atessa mods, roll cage, one piece seats, fuel lines, regulator, pipework, engine internals, etc. etc. etc.

As soon as you go to fix one problem you'll realise that there are alot of associated things that go with it. Before you know it, you've spent over $30 grand with the end no where near in sight....

Hi ParagOn, Dough Boy is pretty much correct. Last time I added up the support systems necessary to enable proper use of a pair of 3037's it came to $80K plus the cost of the GTR to start with. From memory Munro is using a pair of 2835's (one full size smaller) and he has spent probably twice that.

As for 3037's being the "main part", the gearbox to handle them will cost more than they do.

I know Mario won't mind, this is the GTR700 spec, you would need similar.....

http://www.exvitermini.com/r33specs.htm

Hope that answers your questions, if not ask away, but be specific on what area your are interested in.

You can run those turbos on a standard motor. At the bare minimum you would need to sort out the fuel delivery system and injection computer.

 

If you wanted to use that setup to any degree of efficiency, you need:

a) a Very Expensive Gearbox (VEG)

B) rods for the revs for the high powerband that operates in

c) a nice clutch to go with the VEG, normally a chev or hollinger spline depending which way you go

d) a massive fuel system. We're taking three pumps if you go the Bosche route, or one big Barry Grant or Aeromotive with a fuel cell.

e) massive injectors

f) massive intercooler

g) headwork, headwork and more headwork

h) suspension mods: from either a traction or a safety perspective

i) brakes to slow this sucker down

j) uber sticky tyres, like the $500 each Dunlop R's, Nittos, BFG Drags

k) 1.5 or 2 way diffs would be a benefit

l) probably going to snap a driveshaft or two by now, get some spares

a) Will need to change, looking at a second hand hollinger... $15K ?

B) No idea on price.

c) Triple plat Ogura clutch already purchased... I think this would be sufficent?

d) Will need to upgrade

e) Will need to upgrade

f) Trust SPL? $1500 ?

g) Will need to do

h) full tein height adjustables already purchased

i) Will need to upgrade

j) Nitto's would be my choice... 265 ?

k) already has 1.5 differentials and nismo lsd

l) how much is a driveshaft for an r32 ;)

Thanks Doughboy for taking me seriously and listing in detail, help appreciated.

In all seriousness I'm near the end of my R33 project. All up price is around 80K, and it just started with "maybe I should bolt on a bigger turbo..."

I think a better way of approaching any project would be to set out your goals first. What do you want the car for? What do you expect from it? What budget is the absolute max you want to spend on it?

Alot of expectations don't mix, or could be made to work but would require alot more money and time. If you don't plan for that at the beginning you are going to be wasting resources.

So if this is all starting from winning a cheap set of turbos off an online auction then your project is starting behind the 8ball already. For starters you need to check out the compressor maps and work your way backwards to the motor rebuild. I could go on but I think you get the pic.

a) Will need to change, looking at a second hand hollinger... $15K ?

B) No idea on price.

c) Triple plat Ogura clutch already purchased... I think this would be sufficent?

d) Will need to upgrade

e) Will need to upgrade

f) Trust SPL? $1500 ?

g) Will need to do

h) full tein height adjustables already purchased

i) Will need to upgrade

j) Nitto's would be my choice... 265 ?

k) already has 1.5 differentials and nismo lsd  

l) how much is a driveshaft for an r32 ;)

Thanks Doughboy for taking me seriously and listing in detail, help appreciated.

a) Trust H patterns, Pfitzner gearsets are around the 10k mark. Hollinger, OS 6 seq. $18+

B) Argos/Carrillos/Crower = $2k Eagle rods are cheaper but they are poorer quality. I know people would swear by them but why skip on a project like this?

c) OS rate their steel pressure plate triples at 700ps. The alum plate triple at 1200ps? Holly or OS boxes require different spline, therefore new clutch. GForce use a chev spline, say hi to a custom flywheel and Tilton clutch pack. At least $3k either way you look at it for new parts.

d) Cells are sub $500. A complete BG or Aeromotive system with braid is around $4k. You can use the Bosche setups but you need to run more pumps to cope with it.

e) Injectors are an easy one. $1500.

f) 4 layer Trusts can be had for as low as $2k used. The cooler the flow, the more power. Don't skip on this - it's easy power which will prevent detonation too.

g) How much do you want to flow? Can cost from $1k for a simple cleanup, $7k for all the bells and whistles. You'll need springs and titanium retainers at a minimum with high lift cams, $2k+

h) depends on what you want the car for. Everyone at the competitive drag level runs HKS or custom setups. Suspension mods may be in order too to improve geometry and hookup.

i) Run carbons like Mario. Spend 10K to have brakes you need to drive for 10 hours to heat up.

j) the biggest you can fit under the car. Have to be aware about diameter and gear ratios though.

k) Already got, saved some money - go to casino and celebrate

l) People have snapped the HKS ones. Not sure about custom costs, but probably be prepared to keep some handy for replacements.

I've been saving for this thing for 5 years, I've literally worked my ass off and haven't spent a cent on anything unnessecary :D

When I'm commited to something though I always try to go with it... a 0-300 car would be magnificent, considering the max speed on a Stock R32 GT-R with a Mines ECU has a max speed of 243 km/h, Pushing to 300 would be fairly easy, but getting there quickly is why I have decided on the GT3037S, ala Veilside R32 GTR, they run these, do the 1/4 in 8 and 0-300 in 13's. Not that I am trying to beat them or anything :)

Very true. What I've posted is decisions I've made, based on my limited knowledge and that of people I've come into contact with. If I had spoken to SKid, Munro and others before spending 1 cent (re: setting out goals before lashing out cash) I would have saved half my money.

I mean seriously if you wanted to spend that much on this car (and it wont be a road based car) why would you bother finding such a nice example to start with? I would have searched around and bought a bunky 15 year old r32 GTR and saved the money upfront to spend down the track. Also seeing as this car will hardly be driven on the road and only on the track I still cant see the point of it all. Mate you must have more money than a bull can shit. Spare me some? :D

Hindsight is a wonderful thing. If I had the intention to extremely modify a car from the word go I would have bought a cheap car that needed repairs. Hence why i said "a better way of approaching any project would be to set out your goals first".

Next car should be good though, thinking of a '69 fastback mustang with twin T51R's :D

does anyone know if 32's can run out of revs and gearing before the big 300?, that may also be a problem. Carbon fibre driveshafts are around 11k also

One thing you'll definately want to concentrate on is the suspension setup. Think about it logically, your going to need something that will be very stable at 300+ if you intend to go there, otherwise someone will be scraping you off their new pile of scrap metal. The last thing you want at those speeds is to start getting unstable.

Take the willal racing GTR, there not even hitting that mark yet across the 1/4 and they've had seriously scarey moments in the last part of the track on street tyres. You will definately need some body mods to reduce drag and lift in order to help your stability. You may also need a well sorted out wing in order to provide you with the necessary down force in order to keep it all stable...

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