Jump to content
SAU Community

Engine Loses Power & Cuts Out On Boost

surlyjez
 Share

Recommended Posts

surlyjez Apprentice

surlyjez

Posted
Posted

Last night i went for a drive in my 32 gtst and was all fine one moment, accelerated hard and good on boost then all of a sudden at about 3000 rpm when the turbo starts to spool the engine started sputtering / cutting out / losing power and stalled, i then had trouble getting it started again, it is fine under 3000 rpm but the engine cuts out over that.

The 32 is completely stock just changed the spark plugs 2 months ago. From what i have read it sounds maybe coil packs or fuel pump or afm???

Any ideas or tips to narrow it down?

Cheers,

BOOZTJUNKEY Proficient

BOOZTJUNKEY

Posted
Posted

Maybe coil packs but saying you can't rev over 3k makes me think dead air flow meter check ecu for errors codes to rule out sensor then check all rubber hose joiners and clamps ( joiners for splits and make sure clamps are tight) and check vacuum hoses for splits or blown off lines

Bronx Mentor

Bronx

Posted
Posted

belive it or not, i actually put brand new NGK's into my car not even 1 month ago and i have run into the same problem. swapped for a new set and its all gone. just faulty spark plugs. go to just jap or so and buy a cheap set for 20 bucks, easy as.

i bet my money on the sparkies :D

surlyjez Apprentice

surlyjez

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Changed the spark plugs this arvo still dies when it hits about 3k revs under load. Not sure what it might be. maybe coil packs or afm?????? any ideas anyone

cheers,

Edited by surlyjez
Bronx Mentor

Bronx

Posted
Posted (edited)

guess it could be your coil packs then, doubt its the afm or a boost leak, sounds like a ignition problem, so guess your coilpacks cant charge fast enough to create a big enough spark for the high boost range, since low boost your compression isnt high enough for the spark to have difficulties jumping.

find a spare pack of coilovers from someone, cause spending 500 bucks and finding out its not them, is a pain to.

i have a spare set for a rb25neo engine and a set for rb26dett, but i dont think any of them fit your rb20...

or while your at it, might as well change your fuel filter just to be safe.

Edited by Bronx
Bronx Mentor

Bronx

Posted
Posted

what gap you use on your spark plugs????

eventhough my car is stock, and only boosts to 7psi on high, i sometimes have trouble runnin 0.8mm gap, so i use 0.6mm...... kinda weird, but ive been told by most tuners that for forced induction cars should be gapped to 0.6mm

Bronx Mentor

Bronx

Posted
Posted

1.1mm???????? wow, my car wont fire past 2800rpm with that, and ive used diff types of plugs, used pulstars, cheap NGK, NGK platinum and iridium, also Autolite double plats. all had problems firing with 1.1mm gaps.

guess you have some good sparkies??? when i uprated my coilpacks to the splitfires, i havent had problems firing 0.8mm gaps, but still 1.1mm under high boost.

still choose 0.6mm though.... also im running heat range 7 from ngk, the 6 heat range always cracked for me. i swear to god my engine has its periods....

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted (edited)

i have a spare set for a rb25neo engine and a set for rb26dett, but i dont think any of them fit your rb20...

RB20 and RB26 coilpacks are the same, so are series 1 RB25.

Edited by bubba
surlyjez Apprentice

surlyjez

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I think I have fixed my problem. What i did was take the afm out and spray some non residue leaving degreaser stuff through it and let it dry. plugged it all back in and at first it ran even worse but then i reset the ecu and it was all good. back to Better than normal. Hopefully it is all good now. :banana:

surlyjez Apprentice

surlyjez

Posted
  • Author
Posted

1.1mm???????? wow, my car wont fire past 2800rpm with that, and ive used diff types of plugs, used pulstars, cheap NGK, NGK platinum and iridium, also Autolite double plats. all had problems firing with 1.1mm gaps.

guess you have some good sparkies??? when i uprated my coilpacks to the splitfires, i havent had problems firing 0.8mm gaps, but still 1.1mm under high boost.

still choose 0.6mm though.... also im running heat range 7 from ngk, the 6 heat range always cracked for me. i swear to god my engine has its periods....

im using the cheap copper ngk ones now, before i had iridium bosch ones and before that had some platinum ones, but they were all gapped at 1.1mm and its always been fine. maybe ill try gapping them down to 0.8mm and see what happens.

Cheers,

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Recommendation for engine oil funnel spill free

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • EndZee
      Fuel Pump Control Module & Dropping Resistor

      By EndZee · Posted

      Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • Duncan
      M35 Brake caliper replacement

      By Duncan · Posted

      You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Duncan
      Most women will agree that parking is the most taxing part of driving

      By Duncan · Posted

      Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Duncan
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
×
×
  • Create New...