Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I found the hardest to get used to until your out there... is the double apex on turn 2... so much tighter then you expect hence why I went off onto clems precious lawn lol

do you mean turn 3? after the pits, its a pro corner when u do it right but tbh i think its one of the hardest for a new driver, takes a few turns befor u learn where u should enter

having a good handbrake is huge, sucks so much going into a corner and pulling the handbrake then nothing happens, cant wait till i put R33 rear brakes on my 180sx

  • Like 1

And As Import S13 said be careful of the turn 1 inside ripple strip.

I bent a strut hitting it, several other cars have done suspension damage hitting it.

Evan Daws rolled his R31 a couple of years back hitting it.

Yeah its nasty

I snapped clean the linkage to the sway bar making my whole wheel swinging freely and in doing so bent my strut, bend a rare 16" long champ rim and smashed my guard in while also made the car VERY hard to get on the trailer haha.

You would think Clem would do something about it insted of spending the money on more tyer walls!

do you mean turn 3? after the pits, its a pro corner when u do it right but tbh i think its one of the hardest for a new driver, takes a few turns befor u learn where u should enter

having a good handbrake is huge, sucks so much going into a corner and pulling the handbrake then nothing happens, cant wait till i put R33 rear brakes on my 180sx

Nah I reckon He meant turn 2, turn two really is a double apex corner, It tightens on the exit, so it is really easy to start to run wide early.

Turn 3 the way I like to do it is be going in real fast the down shift hard under brakes 4-3 then mild scando while still braking while shifting 3-2nd put it in with big angle and the just about rub the nose of the car on the apex tire stacks near parallel to them.

Gives an extremely slow exit speed but dam its fun and its a non judged area any way

Nah I reckon He meant turn 2, turn two really is a double apex corner, It tightens on the exit, so it is really easy to start to run wide early.

yea it tighttens but there is only one apex, you pretty much start wide, cut into the corner and ride the ripple strip for a bit then push the car towards the exit of the corner

with turn 3 it looks like you should cut into the corner befor u really should, u have to go a lot wider then it looks to hit the apex and stop yourself from being pushed off the side of the track, its all about learning when to enter and knowing when to cut into the apex imo

yeah murph knows what I mean... I guess it may not be a double apex but feels like it lol. Explain it well, start wide and ride the ripple pad all the way around, so much fun.. Just hard to get it nice and wide while in the transition from turn 1. Pwoah all this drift chat is making me eager as f**king to get out there!... I'll have my video camera getting track side this weekend so hopefully some of the boys get some decent entries and I'll get some good footage :)

I've got R33 rear brakes with hydro so my h/brake setup is pretty sweet. I just need more power which I am working on atm.

Weez, found out that the brand new 040 we dropped in my car was f**ked. I blew that 10 and then 20 fuse now got a 30 init.

SKR said they just upgraded my pump from a 040 haha will be out on the track sooner rather then later now. Just need to upgrade turbo, tune and smash some panels!

What a pain in the flamin mongrel that is!!

Sounds good man, you know what turbo you going for?

I get my 2871R dropped off tomorrow :D

After craigus busting chops looks like next time I'll be out will be stadium drift round 1 - Never skidded at tailem before but eh I don't care, and theres a street class I'll slot nicely into haha... Basically only going for the passanger runs :devil:

Grant: sweet good to see you're gonna slide it... it will serve you well! handbrake should be ok.. was working the last time i saw the track but a good tip is to make sure you use a bit of weight transfer while pulling the handbrake.. if you HB in a straight line it will be a lot harder to lock the rears.. plus its gay that way anyway.

Tailem bend is having a prac day on march the 12th which is open to anyone. you'll only need one pair of brand new tyrs and they will last you the whole day and then some to drive home on. from there you'll need fuel, entry fee and so on... theres no reason you couldnt do your first day on a budget of 300-400

Grant: sweet good to see you're gonna slide it... it will serve you well! handbrake should be ok.. was working the last time i saw the track but a good tip is to make sure you use a bit of weight transfer while pulling the handbrake.. if you HB in a straight line it will be a lot harder to lock the rears.. plus its gay that way anyway.

Tailem bend is having a prac day on march the 12th which is open to anyone. you'll only need one pair of brand new tyrs and they will last you the whole day and then some to drive home on. from there you'll need fuel, entry fee and so on... theres no reason you couldnt do your first day on a budget of 300-400

hmmmmm, ill see what money i can scrape together. may not be able to swing it by then though. Going away to Melbourne on the 28th march for work and i want plenty of money to spend there :P

i think i'd rather go to tailem though, considering like you said "theres less shit to hit". So that will be the go for me. also trying to get a mate to come to the drift school with me for a practice.

hopefully i will see you all out there by mid this year!

OH! and where do i sign up for drift school aswell?

Edited by Stagea_G

keep an eye out on the mallala website they will have dates and forms once they have sorted it out.. they usually have 2 a year... its well worth it if your a beginner and want to learn the basics... but anything more then that i'd recommend just keep hitting the track... practice practise practise is the key

yea i will sign up as soon as the forms are available, by may i should have the funds to give it a go.

and im pretty sure the 32 will do it no problems ;)

i saw an old vid of yours, did it use to have a vertex style kit on it?

Edited by Stagea_G

Grant: sweet good to see you're gonna slide it... it will serve you well! handbrake should be ok.. was working the last time i saw the track but a good tip is to make sure you use a bit of weight transfer while pulling the handbrake.. if you HB in a straight line it will be a lot harder to lock the rears.. plus its gay that way anyway.

Tailem bend is having a prac day on march the 12th which is open to anyone. you'll only need one pair of brand new tyrs and they will last you the whole day and then some to drive home on. from there you'll need fuel, entry fee and so on... theres no reason you couldnt do your first day on a budget of 300-400

wwwaaahhhh?????

lol, a brand new set of neutons lasted me feck all there! given it was a hot day i spose they didnt do too bad, but defs take more than one pair...

and yea weez, stadium drift Rnd 1 in may, we WILL be there.

:cheers:

What sort of scruitineering is involved for the drift school days?

like standard sorta thing? or is it like a practice where you just sing a piece of paper saying ya cars all good?

Edited by Stagea_G

its common sense stuff... working lights.. secured battery.. etc

craig i ran a pair of federal 595's and they lasted all day with many thrash laps and thats with 350 + rwkw lol... step away from the neutons man they are no good once you start pushing hard.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
    • You can probably scrub the rust with a toothbrush or something. After you get the rust off flush well with water to neutralize and you will probably want to also use a fuel tank sealer to keep it from rusting again.
    • The sodium citrate solution is designed to buffer the citric acid to keep it from attacking metal quite so much, the guy that came up with that recipe did a ton of testing on how much metal loss occurs over time and it's nothing crazy unless you forget about it for months:   
×
×
  • Create New...