Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a R33 Series 2 Auto, runs fine when cold. Drives fine when warm, but won't idle properly. It will idle at about 700rpm when warm, then it will start dropping to 500rpm and raising to 1000rpm (in Neutral, Park & Drive)

The boost gauge shows vacuum (not boost) pulsing between 10 and 20 with the revs playing up. Exhaust note goes deep, runs rich. When the lights are on when its warm it is worse and blows smoke.

I've cleaned the AAC, checked the TPS, adjusted idle stop & idle screw etc..

Car stalls when I disconnect the AFM.

It runs better when I remove the boost gauge hose off the back of the manifold (letting in more air).

Idle stabilized (but lowered to about 400-500rpm) when I disconnected the AAC plug, but now when I do that it stalls.

I've checked for leaks, spraying air hose joins with carby cleaner.

I've tried banging the ecu with my hand, and it doesn't do anything.

I'm thinking the car stalling when disconnecting the afm has something to do with it...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/353289-another-idle-issue/
Share on other sites

mine is 1.25v at idle.

Worked out why car wouldn't run without afm..

I remembered that about a year ago, the car wouldn't start, spliced the afm ground wire to the battery and the car would run fine.

If i disconnect that and just use the ecu afm ground, it wont start.. but if i disconnect the afm AND the negetive ground to the battery, it will run.

Idle isnt perfect without afm, but im guessing it would run rich without afm?

disconnect battery terminal in the boot

press brake pedal a few times (drain all power)

then reconnect battery terminal

start car and let it idle

the stock ecu will perform base idle adjust and should be ok from here on

So I disconnect the O2 sensor and idle stabilises after about 10 secs... let it run for 5 mins all good. connected O2 sensor again, starts hunting... thought it doesn't use O2 at idle?

Or does the ecu think it isnt at idle? check idle sensor? guess I just answered my own question...

had an issue IDENTICAL to this, checked everything you have.

turned out to be the rubber o-ring/gasket between the top and bottom half of the intake manifold (between chamber and runners) shit of a job to take off but fixed the issue straight away.

may not be your issue but worth a shot.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
    • Perhaps the answer is... more jacks!* *proper jacks must be used.  
    • I NEVER think about using a scissor jack unless there is absolutely no other alternative. f**king things are dangerous, annoying and stupid.
×
×
  • Create New...