Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello,

I got some damage to the back of my car. I've attached some images.

I just want to know what kind of prices im looking at to repair it or otherwise whats the price range for replacement?

I got some people telling me I need a panel beater? How much is that? I have no idea.

-

post-81658-0-76861100-1297213864_thumb.jpgpost-81658-0-98595400-1297213856_thumb.jpgpost-81658-0-35647800-1297213839_thumb.jpg

Tell me what you guys think.. how much money do i have to say goodbye to? thanks.gif

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/353355-rear-bumper-damage-repairreplace/
Share on other sites

Panelbeater can easily repair that with a bit of heat it'd pop right out. Unfortunately you will also need to pay to repaint, prob cost you $400-500 all up.

I had that damage, plus some on rear quarter, cost $500 to fix up.

The rear bar is plastic you can just heat it up with a hair dryer and pop it right out! my mate did it with his rear bar, then take it down to a panel shop respray should cost you around $400 or less if your supplying the paint.

Step

1) Remove the bar, because if you need the panelbeater, there'll be less labour cost

2) Check the metal Reo-bar behind to see if it's damaged at the edge

3) Heat up the damaged area on both sides and its surrounds, because the molecules in the plastic are aligned and form a 'memory' to go back the way they were before

4) If that doesn't work completely, the panelbeater has a hot bath to immerse that section

5) Repaint the bar with it already removed will cost $325-450 as stated above. Repainting the front bar (already removed) might cost just a bit more while you're at it.

If your in Victoria my mate has a black 34 rear bar genuine plastic for sale...let me know if your interested $200. Just waiting to see if we can pick up this Altia Rear bar

PM if interested

Repaired! Thanks Guys for the $ estimates. I've got it repaired now thumbsup.gif

I went all around town lookin for $400-500..

I asked different companies..

Got alot of " sorry mate its unrepairable and its gonna cost $1200 to replace "

and also " if anyone tries to repair it, it wont look right "

But finally got someone to " repair " it.. not replace lol..

what are the other guys going on about? trying to scam me! nyaanyaa.gif

Anyways.. it cost me only $300

post-81658-0-55135600-1298523376_thumb.jpg

thanks again guys

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
×
×
  • Create New...