Jump to content
SAU Community

Evening all


Recommended Posts

Guest Cob@lt60

Hi guys,

Just thought i would post a message to say hi.. :)

Some of you might know me from the SDU forums.. others wont. :D

I have a swank R32 (Black with blue Pearl), got lots of nice go fast bits on it too..

I'll post some pics of it at some stage.. only got old ones at the moment..

Also if you have any single sisters between the ages of 19-25 im availible.. hehehe

Anyway... Enjoy. ;):lol:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3538-evening-all/
Share on other sites

Guest Cob@lt60

Yeah, its basically the same since you saw it last..

Got an intercooler and fuel pump on the way..

So.. just the HKS super dragger exhaust, 10psi/14psi (dual stage boost), heavy duty brass button ceramic clutch, cold air intake, HKS SSQV bov. Thats about it..

If only i had an extra 5000 bucks i'd be laughing.. :D Im only aiming for 200rwkw.. otherwise i'll never have any cash.. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3538-evening-all/#findComment-61279
Share on other sites

hhehe I have got a sister!!! but she's taken :)

hey u'll be ok, I'm sure you won't be single for long :D

now hurry up & put up some pics of this swank r32 of yours!!

I've seen it before but I don't think it was with the pearl paint?? can't remember....

Shell :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3538-evening-all/#findComment-61827
Share on other sites

Its not to hard to keep up with a 4wd as long as you can launch her properly and have non-low profile tyres on. :D

I kept up with Andy's R33 GTR with a 5000rpm launch. Well should i say i actually was in front :(..

Helped that I had better reaction time also :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3538-evening-all/#findComment-62160
Share on other sites

Hey Mark,

They can't find a problem with it. I know it has something to do with when i go into fifth gear my car goes into full time four wheel drive and something is heating up, and causing the lovely burning oil or grease smell through the cabin, then the four wheel drive light comes on. This only happens when i have to spend long periods in fifth at high speed. Can't wait for Mount Gambier, how about you, have you seen the post for the meeting this weekend.

Catcha next time your out cruisin.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3538-evening-all/#findComment-65285
Share on other sites

Yeah might be the go, Tim has got that bolt-on 500HP R33 turbo pretty much sorted, would love to give it a go. However do not have a spare $2900-$3000.

Should get 250rwkW no probs but for a daily drive is this a bit much? Whatsisname has no traction until third with "only" 236rwkW so it starts to get a bit silly.

Anyway, I'll keep think about it and maybe work out how to get some rear end traction!

I'm sure Tim could do a T3 exhaust flange GT25 for you and make it bolt-on. I'd say a 420HP jobbie would be the best combo for the 2L. It might scare me into buying the GT30 if you get it!!:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3538-evening-all/#findComment-65969
Share on other sites

Better quality tyres "should" make a big difference (in my case)

plus the Whiteline rear subframe align/lock kit that's going in on Thursday :uh-huh: Set to "Maximum Traction".

I like being able to over power rear grip at will (in the dry) but sometimes it's a plain ol' pain in the arse. I'd like to have the best of both worlds, kinda' like the GT-R :)

I'm not really making that much power, 300+rwkw is when it gets crazy for a regular street car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/3538-evening-all/#findComment-66053
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...