Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

wheres a good place to get a nistune? im surprised no one mentioned injectors..or is that pointless untill hunting done more power in the future?

sorry guys i only asked for a stupid number like 5 mods cause of budget limits :(

p.s if i were to set my boost at 10psi(stock turbo/r34 gtt smic) would a boost T do the job?

thanks for the feed back so far guys

wheres a good place to get a nistune? im surprised no one mentioned injectors..or is that pointless untill hunting done more power in the future?

p.s if i were to set my boost at 10psi(stock turbo/r34 gtt smic) would a boost T do the job?

thanks for the feed back so far guys

Injectors would be like number 6, along with fuel pump. The others mentioned are the mods to start with because without those injectors are pointless. Why would you need them without the extra power/need for fuel?Yes a Boost T would do fine.Just do some searching on this forum, you'll find endless threads about reputable workshops, what mods to do first, what gains to expect, info about ECU's etc.

1. put a built RB30 bottom end on

2. build head/cams

3. put a correctly sized turbo on

4. injectors

5. OIL

Thats on the mota, then the ECU, then the fueling, then the tune, then the drivetrain, then the suspension, then the brakes, then the tyres, then the cooling (i/c oil cai)

And then, and then, and then

Welcome my friend.

iv come to realise that the mods never end do they haha

yeah i might leave the injectors later once im keen on more power but i might just boost to 10psi and get some new spark plugs

once iv boosted should i get a tune done or not really needed??

ok, cheapest decent power available: :)

1: gcg highflowed turbo - 2nd hand - $1000

2: turbo back exhaust - jjr or similar - $1000

3: turbotech (not turbo smart) boost tee - $50

4: china spec fmic & piping kit - $300

5: nistune - $800

6: clutch - exedy single plate button $500

7: diff - welded - $100

ok, so for $3750 or thereabouts you can have ~ 230rwkw and a fun car to drive. add coilovers for around 5 grand that's pretty sweet.

injectors, z32 afm and fuel pump could be added to this later on for around $1500 and you will have ~260rwkw

  • Like 1

For the fully sick individuals:

1) paint brake calipers red (+25rwkw)

2) flower stickers on rear window (+5rwkw per sticker)

3) fake turbo noise clip-on for exhaust (+50rwkw)

4) Neons (+35 rwkw per item)

5) 22" China spec chrome dinner plate rims (+90rwkw per wheel)

Or

Sell the car & buy a Hyundai Excel, do the above mods to it for the instant over 9000kw

For the normal people:

1) turbo back exhaust + high flow CAT

2) high flow panel filter + stock air box or POD with enclosure

3) Intercooler upgrade

4) Boost controller (manual or electronic)

5) Some sort of engine management + tune

Edited by Mayuri Krab

ok, cheapest decent power available: :)

1: gcg highflowed turbo - 2nd hand - $1000

2: turbo back exhaust - jjr or similar - $1000

3: turbotech (not turbo smart) boost tee - $50

4: china spec fmic & piping kit - $300

5: nistune - $800

6: clutch - exedy single plate button $500

7: diff - welded - $100

ok, so for $3750 or thereabouts you can have ~ 230rwkw and a fun car to drive. add coilovers for around 5 grand that's pretty sweet.

injectors, z32 afm and fuel pump could be added to this later on for around $1500 and you will have ~260rwkw

this sounds goood, since im on a cheapish budget...but i might get a jap intercooler since iv heard alot of people complain with the chinese ones.

quick question whats the pros and cons of getting my cat high flowed??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
×
×
  • Create New...