Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Just a small update to let everybody know exactly what I still have left over for sale. I will also be taking photos of all the available parts in the coming days and uploading them here. Any questions just PM me or call / txt 0488188111.

RB30/25DET BUILT LONG MOTOR (NEEDS NEW OIL PUMP AND CRANK COLLAR) - $1500 NEGOTIABLE

MALPASSI FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR (RISING-RATE = 1:1) - $100 SOLD / PENDING PAYMENT

TWIN-ENTRY FUEL INJECTOR RAIL (TOP-FEED) - $100

SIEMENS 740CC FUEL INJECTORS (TOP-FEED/HIGH IMPEDANCE. INCLUDES ALL PLUGS/COLLARS/O-RINGS) - $350

CUSTOM-MADE VMS MOTORSPORTS BAR AND PLATE FRONT-MOUNT INTERCOOLER (680X280X120MM) - $300

TANABE TUNER MEDALLION RACING CAT-BACK EXHAUST (3.25" SYSTEM/4" CANNON EXIT) - $350

NEW EXEDY HD BUTTON CLUTCH (UNCUSHIONED) AND FRESHLY MACHINED RB25DET FLYWHEEL (TRAVELLED 2.5KMS) INTERCHANGEABLE BETWEEN HCR32/ECR33 S1 - $450

USED RB25DET OEM FLYWHEEL - $50

USED NISSAN S15/R34 FACTORY YELLOW SIDE INDICATORS/WINKERS (WITH LOOM AND PLUG) - $30

BRAND NEW URAS STYLE REAR BAR AND SIDE SKIRTS FOR NISSAN S15 (UNFITTED/UNPAINTED, STILL IN GEL COATING) - $300

Edited by GT32

Could you do the OEM flywheel posted to 3096 for $60?

Also do you have the flywheel bolts?

Where area is 3096? Maybe I can come and drop off to you.

I have the complete RB25DET flywheel bolts as well. Was going to include them for the buyer of my other Exedy clutch and flywheel combo that I have for sale but if you're after them I'll do them for $20.

Edited by GT32

Does the HCR have H1 Headlamp Bulbs? Im looking for the Bulb Holders.

R u willing to seperate them from the Headlamps?

R u willing to ship em overseas?

Don't have those sorry.

Added to listing:

BRAND NEW VERTEX STYLE REAR BAR AND SIDE SKIRTS FOR NISSAN S15 (UNFITTED/UNPAINTED) - $300

Also just finished taking photos of everything that I've got for sale. Will post them up in about half an hour.

Another price drop. I need these gone!!

TWIN-ENTRY FUEL INJECTOR RAIL (TOP-FEED) - $100 FREE WITH PURCHASE OF INJECTORS

SIEMENS 740CC FUEL INJECTORS (TOP-FEED/HIGH IMPEDANCE. INCLUDES ALL PLUGS/COLLARS/O-RINGS) - $350 INCLUDING RB25 TWIN-ENTRY FUEL RAIL

NEW EXEDY HD BUTTON CLUTCH (UNCUSHIONED) AND FRESHLY MACHINED RB25DET FLYWHEEL (TRAVELLED 2.5KMS) INTERCHANGEABLE BETWEEN HCR32/ECR33 S1 - $450 $400

Prices are marginally negotiable. PM for more info.

NEW EXEDY HD BUTTON CLUTCH (UNCUSHIONED) AND FRESHLY MACHINED RB25DET FLYWHEEL (TRAVELLED 2.5KMS) INTERCHANGEABLE BETWEEN HCR32/ECR33 S1 - $450 $400 SOLD

Edited by GT32

Price drop again!

CUSTOM-MADE VMS MOTORSPORTS BAR AND PLATE FRONT-MOUNT INTERCOOLER (680X280X120MM) - $300 $250 NEGOTIABLE

TANABE TUNER MEDALLION RACING CAT-BACK EXHAUST (3.25" SYSTEM/4" CANNON EXIT) - $350 $300 NEGOTIABLE

Someone buy these! lol.

TWIN-ENTRY FUEL INJECTOR RAIL (TOP-FEED) - $100 FREE WITH PURCHASE OF INJECTORS SOLD

SIEMENS 740CC FUEL INJECTORS (TOP-FEED/HIGH IMPEDANCE. INCLUDES ALL PLUGS/COLLARS/O-RINGS) - $350 INCLUDING RB25 TWIN-ENTRY FUEL RAIL SOLD

Edited by GT32
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 7 months later...

Hey guys, just wanted to reopen this thread as I still have some parts leftover that I need gone! Everything stripped/leftover from my old HCR32. Located in Geelong, VIC

Still for sale:

USED RB30/25DET LONG MOTOR (NEEDS NEW OIL PUMP AND CRANK COLLAR) - $1500 NEGOTIABLE $1000 SLIGHTLY NEGOTIABLE / PM FOR MORE INFO

USED CUSTOM VMS MOTORSPORTS BAR AND PLATE FRONT-MOUNT INTERCOOLER (680X280X120MM) - $250 $100

USED TANABE TUNER MEDALLION RACING CAT-BACK EXHAUST (3.25" SYSTEM/4" EXIT) - $300 $150

USED NISSAN S15/R34 FACTORY YELLOW SIDE INDICATORS/WINKERS (WITH LOOM AND PLUG) - $30

USED NISMO BNR32 GT-R IN-TANK FUEL PUMP 276L/HR (TRAVELLED ~6000KMS) - $300

Edited by GT32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...