Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I've done a search but can't find what i'm looking for...

I wanna space my rear wheels out 20 or 30mm. I don't wanna cut the factory studs, coz i'll eventually get some sweeet wheels and not need spacers anymore.

Can I use 25mm spacers and not have to cut studs? If that's no good, would 30mm work? I'm going to get them from Just Jap, unless you guys have a better recommendation?

If u do have to cut them make sure u have the wheel nuts on the studs against the rotor before u cut. That way after u cut the stud u can wind the nut off and it will rethread the cut end back to normall

Hey guys, just posting up in case it helps anybody in future.

I put the 25mm spacers on the back. Car looks sooo much better now, like the way it's supposed to be, rather than inset wheels (i have 18x8 +30).

I didn't even realise it, but my wheel had heaps of space for the studs between each mounting point, so i could even run like 10mm bolt on spacers and with 15mm of stud protruding, it wouldn't be a problem. So if anybody else is thinking of doing this, check your wheels like was mentioned in this thread :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
×
×
  • Create New...