Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

I have installed a S2 RB25DET into my HR31 coupe over the last few months i regoed it over a month ago and all is good, pulls nice and seems to drive like it should. I gave it to a local tuner to put her on the dyno and run it up to see if there is any problems turns out after 9 power runs everytime at 6000rpm and making 140rwkw it drops off, he said they usally drop off a little bit but then pick up and goes to the red line as mine doesn't.

Fuel is rich and it isn't leaning out.

No vac leaks or boost leaks.

The motor isn't breathing oil.

Timing is right.

AFM seems to be in good working order.

CAS seems to be in good working order.

He seemed to think the timing belt had jumped teeth and told me to check it, i thought if the belt had jumped over it would be running bad all the time and not just at 6000rpm. So i checked the timing belt and all the marks line up.

I went over my wiring and from what i have wired it up from it's correct.

The CAS isn't off centre as the timing is back to 15 degrees at roughly 850 rpm on idle.

New splitfire coilpacks less than 1500 km old.

New NGK copper plugs pre gapped to .8 less than 1500km old.

Before the motor went in it had new oil and filter, fuel filter, coolant and flush, water pump, timing belt and a boshi 040 installed.

Im taking the car back on Friday to have a some more work done with re run with a mates S2 computer, as i have a mate that works at the tuners shop and he reckons it might be ecu related.

The motor is pretty much stock apart from:

FMIC

Greddy profic type II boost controller (witch is off currently)

Boshi 040

3 inch exhaust with a centure muffler and rear muffler

Splitfires

Im thinking of getting a tune done with a power fc but im pretty sure my problem will still be there even with the new computer and tune.

As you can see im all out of ideas.

Any ideas or help will be great!

Cheers

Adam

Edited by Ad's

dude.... 140rwkw and beyond is the rich and retard maps in the factory ECU.

TUrn your boost up and I bet it hits this hole a whole lot earlier.

Get a tunable ECU, its a known fact that the factory ECU is useless for anything above stock power.

You are wasting your money trying to "fix" the factory ECU.

Powerfc...

Boost controller got turned off as it was only making it run worse! And its still off currently! I will be looking at a power fc soon when i don't have a lack of money.

The VCT is working as it clicks and my mate pointed it out when it was in there!

Thanks

Apparently its my air flow meter in the cooler piping! It's going back in a week or so when i have moved it back and seeing it it changes anything!

islade : I borrowed a mates manual computer and it didn't make a difference.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
    • EMU Classic. For what I need it to do I see no reason to upgrade. Link and Haltech would both cost an extra chunk of money for a lot of unutilized features
×
×
  • Create New...