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Blitz boost controller $300

HKS gauges and pillar (oil temp, Boost and Volts gauges) $350

1 CAS RB26 $200

Motec CAS Rb26 $200

G reddy single turbo Dual airflow MTR intake fitting $180

R33 GTR Gear box good condition $800

RB26 Short HKS 40thou forged pistons after market forged rods needs crank matching block to pistons in good condition $1100

Hoosier tyres 18x-275-35zr 40% tread good grip R spec tyres $400

R33 GTR gear box mounts $50 each

RB 26 ignition igniter $200

R33 GTR gear stick with carbon gear stick knob $100sold air flow meters

R33 GTR Air bag 95-96 $100

Various elbows turbo pipes from $60 HKS and Greddy for twin turbo and single turbo

R 33 GTR clock for 4 wheel steer fits under steering wheel $200

G reddy injectors 1 set 660 cc $350 PER SET good condition

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    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
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