Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, need some help! my car has been at the crash repair and had a mate go down to take my BOV off and yesterday i put the stock one back on and now my car wont start.. the car continuously turns over but does not start! it sounds really healthy which is making me think that maybe a fuse is gone.. but i am limited to my time there so need to look in a specific spot.. and suggestions?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/355985-r33-not-starting/
Share on other sites

the car should start with a dead AFM (usually just won't rev over 2500rpm, and won't idle very well).

do the usual tests. grab a spare sparkplug and make sure the engine is getting spark, make sure the fuel pump is priming, etc. if there is no spark i'd start with the CAS.

Sorry for the late reply guys.. Been helped out with a few mates and after spending 120 for new spark plugs i found out that the old ones got screwed up by the guys at the crash repairer. to my knowledge i think the issue was that they tried to start the car without any BOV and the fuel to air ratio was not the same so there was way too much fuel being sucked in causing the engine to flood and kill the spark plugs.. all resolved now tho! Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done your thinking backwards? 3 bar, 43.5 psi pressure drop being the presumed specification for an injector, means you need 3 bar upstream when they are firing into atmospheric pressure, and more upstream pressure than that when on boost (you add your boost to your rail pressure to maintain 3 bar across the injector) and you need..... less pressure upstream when you have vacuum in the manifold. So, presuming that you're idling at -10 psi, then you only need ~23 psi in the rail. I realise that I did not need to say all of that to you specifically Matt, once you'd realised your mistake. It's mostly there for complete clarity for others.
    • Have you reached out to the guys at Spool Imports? They are a Ross dealer, I can imagine they would have the rings just sitting on the shelf (I could be wrong).  
    • There's one for sale at Grand Auto Wreckers in Lonsdale (SA), for .... let's suggest the sum they're asking for will make you cry. You may have to embrace the idea of modifying the rear subframe to accept some other diff. You could probably find a way to wangle a shortnose into there, with a custom rear adapter and some sort of shenanigans to relocate the front mounts. This has probably already been done by others, so there might be some guidance available as to how easy/impossible it is, out there in the googles. But you possibly needn't restrict yourself to Nissan diffs if you're going to contemplate that. There are similarish Toyota diffs, possibly some Euro ones, possibly some Seppo ones.
    • The ball joint taper and arm taper have to match angle and diameter, but just doing the bushes is a much better option.....seems like the industry moved to "it is cheaper to replace the whole arm than take on the labour for changing this bushes", glad the aftermarket supports it
    • Gee she looks a bit rear heavy in that first pic! Sounds like a great project with the kids, but as I guess you know R series stuff is getting hard to find and pre that is pretty much impossible these days
×
×
  • Create New...